Carburetor and Engine Tune Up

[eliminator]

Thought I would start a new thread in the right area.
Anyway, Gasman, I understand you have a 427, is that right? If so 72's in the secondaries is way to lean. How do you know your too rich?
If someone was following and their eyes were burning it wasn't the secondaries unless you had your foot in it, as they wouldn't be open.
What carburetor is on the machine, vacum advance? If you have solid lifters you might want to adjust them before messing with the carburetor, while you have the valve covers off it would be a good time to change plugs, check and adjust timing, then go to the carburetor. I am running 74's in the primary and 78's in the secondaries with a Holley 3310, vacum secondary carburetor. If anything I could probably go to a 80 in the secondary. Since my engine is a SA 427 the cam is probably the same as yours. I have aluminum heads and intake.

Rick

[clayfoushee]

Rick,

I think he's working on the car now. I'm no motor expert, and haven't seen it, so not sure what kind of carb he's running(except a 750 CFM Holley), but it is an SA 427 topoiler. I know he's working on the car this afternoon, and away from his computer....might appreciate some expert help.

SA told him yesterday they thought it had 72's primary and secondary, but he found 78s in the secondary, so his theory was that they are overjetted. He says it's belching black smoke when he kicks it. It is a solid lifter engine.

His cell number is 706-840-3472

Clay

'98 Unique #9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[eliminator]

Clay,

I have contacted him, we will see what we can do.
May just be full of "soot" depending on the previous owner:D:D.

Rick

[Brent]

Spark first, then air, then fuel. The total timing may be slow or the advance too late or not enough initial. New plugs to start with. Make sure you run enough gap if using an MSD system (min..045). It is hard to read a plug on unleaded fuel they always look like crap.
Also take a look at the power valve and make sure it is OK. To select a power valve size check manifold vac. at idle and subtract 3 or 4 numbers. ie, If you have 12" of vac. start with a 9.5 or 8.5 power valve. The lower the valve number the later it opens. If the motor has a lumpy camshaft the manifold vac. will be very low and the power valve may be open all the time causing a very rich condition. If the power valve has been removed and a "plug" installed the motor may also have a very rich condition at part throttle and foul plugs frequently.NEVER plug a power valve. You will need to increase jet size by 10 or 12 numbers to compensate and you will lose performance and drivability. As Eliminator stated I doubt 72/78 jetting is too much for a 427 I think I would look for something else.

[clayfoushee]

Rick,

Thank you so much for taking the time to call him. He called me after he'd talked to you, and said you were a "genius" and is blown away by the amount of support he's seen so far from the Unique community.

Thanks also Brent for weighing in too. We'll see how they do after Eliminator's crash course in 427s, Holley's, and valve lash adjustments this afternoon.

Clay

'98 Unique #9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[gasman]

Rick, I left a note for you on a previous topic thread, however in the event you don't revisit that subject, I would like to mirror the comments of my brother. I am most appreciative of your time with me today and can't thank you enough. As we say in Augusta, GA.....You da man!

Steve Foushee

[clayfoushee]

Little Bro,

Brent also raises a number of interesting points above. You mentioned the plugs being shot and looking like crap. As he said above, you cannot read plugs like we did in the "old days" having to run on today's unleaded fuel. They all look like crap when you pull them.

But, get the valve lash adjustment right, go ahead and change the plugs (checking the gap like Brent said above...your MSD box is probably mounted under the passenger-side dash if not under the hood), and then start worrying about the jets. But, do check the timing as well.

Clay

'98 Unique #9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[eliminator]

Steve,

Let us know how you come out after the tune-up. If you havn't solved the black smoke problem we can visit some other areas. I run about 9-10" of vacume and use a 6.5 power valve but all engines are a little different. The power valve will not effect wide open throttle. If you are running 60 MPH in 4th gear and push it to the floor it will probably blow out black smoke because the engine RPM is not high enough to pull the air needed for that much fuel. Probably want to check this problem in second and third gear so you can turn some RPM's. Genius/Expert[:O] I am not, but I have some smart friends:D. I learn something about these cars and engines every day.

Rick

[eliminator]

For those with MSD ignitions.
When it comes to spark plugs, we recommend using a standard copper plug. Platinum type spark plugs do not work well with capacitive discharge ignitions. The small electrode and the fact that the plugs themselves run hot to begine with, cause them to prematurley fail. Brand name will not matter, and you should use a degree or two colder than what the manufacturer calls for.

Thank You,
MSD Tech


Rick

[clayfoushee]

Probably a dumb question, but here goes......

I've never had the air cleaner off my carb for fear of angering either the "FE or Holley gods," having acquired my car last August. I've always been a strong believer in the "ain't broke don't fix it" principle, and it always has, and continues to run flawlessly.

But, I took a closer look tonight, and noticed a reddish, sticky, gel-like substance around the edges of the S&H air cleaner assembly (both top and bottom), and on the rubber gaskets around the edges of the K&N air filter element. There's no evidence of it in or around the carb itself.

What is that stuff....somebody's idea of a sealer around the filter element?

Clay

'98 Unique #9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[bittentoo]

clayfoushee, If I read correctly, you have a K&N air filter. If so, what you are seeing is an accumulation of the K&N oil that you put on the filter for filtration.

If you haven't ever cleaned your filter here is Filter Cleaning 101:

When you get ready to clean it, you will need the K&N cleaner/oil kit. Spray the filter with the cleaner and let sit. Then sneak to the wifes kitchen sink and rinse with hot water, then run like hell[}:)] Once safely outside sling the water out of filter and then place in a nice sunny spot and let dry. This should be a place that has at least one chair that you place your body in with a cold beer and watch the filter dry. Repeat as nessessary until filter is dry:D Depending on how long it takes for the filter to dry and at what point the wife finds her dirty sink, you will reply accordingly;
from, yes dear I'm sorry, will clean it right now; to, who gives a $hit! At this point be prepared to sleep with the car[B)]

On second thought, just send the filter to me for cleaning. I haven't slept with the dog in quite a while[}:)]

[clayfoushee]

Bitten:D:D:D

Thanks, after I got up off the floor from laughing my a.. off.

Bingo, you nailed it.....it is the oil K&N recommends, but somebody really took 'em seriously[:O] The entertainment value of your answer was priceless!

I'll definitely make sure I have enough cold cans in the fridge, so that the filter can dry properly today. Plus, my wife is out of town:D





Clay

'98 Unique #9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[Brent]

:D:D:D:D:D

Fellow married members,

Always remember " It is always easier to get forgiveness than permission"

:D:D:D:D:D

Brent