Scattershield

[Gerry]

Since I just received my hydraulic throwout bearing yesterday, I plan on installing the transmission this evening, however, before I proceed I would like to know if it is recommended that the bottom of the scattershield be cut off?

Any input would be appreciated.

Gerry

[eliminator]

Gerry,

You can get two storeies I am sure.
On my 427 S/C with a BB 427 FE I cut the scatter shield flange off on the Lakewood Bellhousing. It is now the same distance from the ground as my Canton Oil Pan, about 3 3/4"-3 7/8". I fought over both ways and decided the cut was the best way to go. If not the bellhousing was going to be another inch lower and you have to be very, very, carefull driving over things.

Rick

[Brent]

Gerry,
I cut mine off just like Rick did. The oil pan on a Cobra is actually well protected due to the fact that the motor is so far behind the front spindles. In a normal car the front of the pan is in front of the spindle and is the first thing to hit. Getting in and out of driveways is fairly easy. The killer is a speed bump or anything you can high center over.

Brent

[Gerry]

Rick and Brent,
Once again, thanks for the responses. I have a 427 FE, Lakewood Scattershield and Aviad oil pan. It appears that the scattershield hangs down almost 1-3/4 inches below the oil pan. If I cut the flange I will completely lose the bottom two bolts and partially lose two adjacent bolts. Does this sound right? Also, is it best to cut the aluminum plate behind the flywheel in place, or do I have to remove the flywheel/clutch?

Gerry

[Poorboy]

Gerry,
You can cut it in place. I would cut the scattershield while it was off and use it as guide to cut the block plate. The plate should be mild steel, aluminum would have been in front of an automatic.

Poorboy

[pgermond]

Looks as though you have your answer, but here is my $0.02 just in case.... clip it, unless you don't foresee speed bumps, drive way curbs that don't deep, etc, etc, etc. If you snag anything, it will feel as though the chassis is being ripped out beneath you.

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

[clayfoushee]

Gerry,

What's your ground clearance on that oil pan?

Clay

'98 Unique #9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[eliminator]

Gerry,

The way I cut mine I lost 2 bolts and the cut comes right up to the remaining 2 bolts you are talking about. As Poorboy suggested, cutting the backing plate while in place is possible. Mine was cut before the flywheel and clutch were in place. I used ARP 12 Point SS fastners on the upper part of the Lakewood Bellhousing and added Grade 8 + hard washers flat washers to the bottom bolts and torqued to spec's.

Rick

[Gerry]

Again,thanks for all of the replys. As suggested, I will cut the scattershield, reassemble and then use the trimmed scattershield as a guide to cut the backing plate.

Clay - Since the car is on stands with the wheels removed I don't know the actual ground clearance.

Rick - Do you recall the torque specification for the scattershield? If not, I will try the Lakewood Website.

Gerry

[clayfoushee]

Gerry,

Mine is cut exactly as Rick described above, with the bottom of the remaining holes cut off. It is completely flush with the flat bottom of the Canton Racing Oil Pan. That's why I asked about the ground clearance of the Aviad.

Clay

'98 Unique #9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[eliminator]

Gerry,

I torqued mine at 60 Lbs., top bolts that go into the block, w/washers, and bolt's with nuts on the bottom w/washers.

Rick

[gasman]

mine is cut the same as Rick and Clay's.

Steve Foushee