Pesky oil leak

[pgermond]

Maybe this will help someone else -

I have had an oil leak on my pan since I received the engine. To make a long story short.... after I got the car home from the painter I was able to identified the source. The dust at the paint shop stuck to the pan and it was as if the culprit had a spot light on it. I have a Canton pan and the originating point of the oil leak was at the weld running up the front of the pan on the left side. A bad weld with a microscopic pin hole allowed just enough oil to seep to be a pain in the fanny (I hate oil leaks :( ) I cleaned it with acetone, roughed it up with some coarse sand paper, mixed up some JB Weld epoxy and....... presto - no more oil leak :D[^]:D Beats the heck out of having to remove the pan [:P]

I don't know if this is common with the Canton oil pans, but this "fix" worked with little effort.

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

[glenn]

Phil,
Know what you mean about those pesky leaks. I've been struggling with a couple brake fittings leaking. But slowly getting them corrected.Last couple weeks have been slow on the build.On a early post i believe you were adding a fan behind the radiator. What temperature did your engine run before adding the fan? Also did you have to remove the turkey pan to connect your linkage to the carb? THanks Glenn

[pgermond]

Glenn,

The SPAL fan I added is a safety measure - I wasn't having any temp problems, but when it gets in the 90's I want options [^]

Yes, I had to remove the carb and turkey pan to install the linkage. Actually, I had to do a little grinding in order for it to move freely and not rub against the inside of the pan. Just one of those little "modifications" that are required.

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

[GeorgiaSnake]

Phil I think Tony Radford had a Canton pan that developed a crack just like yours.

Did you wire your spal puller to the same circuit or did you add one with a switch.

Randy

Unique 289 FIA
Southern Automotive 396
Team III 16's
Brilliant Silver

[souzape]

Regarding the fan..... I live on the Mojave Desert and we get fairly frequent ambient temperatures here hovering around the 112-115 range. I have a 289 body (read small radiator inlet) with a 351C engine and was really having problems in low speed traffic with the car pushing 220-230. The pushers just didn't seem to be able to control things. Bill Parham recommended the SPAL and I installed it as a puller operating off a second switch. Things still get hot but I seem to be able to keep the temp below 200.

PHIL SOUZA

[WBofTN]

What thermostat do you guys recomend for a 351w stroker motor? I am in the process of repairing a thermostat housing leak and have it apart now.
Currently my motor has a 195 degree stat in and it works fine until I get
in slow moving traffic. Just wondering if I should put a cooler one in.
WB

'93 Unique 427/351W/4sp

[pgermond]

Randy -

I wired the SPAL off the same circuit/switch as the pullers and "upped" the fuse to a 20A. That way I only have to concern myself with having to remember one switch rather than two ;)

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

[Jim Harding]

WB,

The thermostat sets the 'lowest' temp your system will run at. If your system (radiator)is able to remove all or most of the heat generated by the engine, then you should see (in your case)195 all the time. Putting in a lower stat if your current temps run more than the stat temp rating, will not do a thing for you. If this the case, you'll have to improve on the radiators ability to remove the heat, i.e. better air flow, different alloy material that disapates heat better than what you now have, maybe a better flowing water pump, etc.

- Jim -



Jim Harding
La Plata, Maryland

1982 #3004
http://www.capitalareacobraclub.com/albums/album26/1aLeftside.thumb.jpg

[WBofTN]

thats good info Jim. I guess I was kinda suprised to find a 195 stat
in my car. That seems to be a higher temp stat than what most people run.
WB

'93 Unique 427/351W/4sp

[Jim Harding]

Yeah WB.... I learned this lesson the hard way a few years ago. Was running a tad over 190 with a 180 stat. Went to a 160 and didn't see any difference. Then some wise old (older) gentleman gave me cooling systems 101. The 160 stat is still in, but my improvements to a better flowing fan keeps my temps at around 180 when it's hot out, but on days like today where it hangs in the 40's, the temp runs right at 160. Even on hot days, in slow to stoped traffic, I've never seen it go over 200.

I haven't been taught the reasons for going with a 160, or a 180. or a 190 stat. I had a link somewhere to a web site that gave some info related to the overall efficiency of the combustion process, but can't find it now. I'm probably going to put my 180 back in, 'cause I think my oil will come up to a higher temp to keep the moisture evaporated, and the other nasty stuff from building up.

- Jim -

Jim Harding
La Plata, Maryland

1982 #3004
http://www.capitalareacobraclub.com/albums/album26/1aLeftside.thumb.jpg

[bittentoo]

The 195 thermostat is a result of the EFI motors and emissions. If your engine is carbed, then 180 in what you need. A 160 thermostat is to cool and might cause more problems in the long run with uneven cylinder wall wear and low oil temps.