Ride Height

[Copper01]

I've got some miles on the Cobra now and it drives well and runs like a rocket on wheels. I know that I'm probably being anal retentive, but the left rear sits noticably higher that the right rear. I thought at first that I had misadjusted the shocks, but I pulled the Cobra onto the lift and took the following measurements:

_____________________________LR_________RR________ _LF_______RF
Frame to Ground______________6 7/8"_______7 0"_______7 5/8"_____7 3/4"
Shock mount to Ground________20 3/4"_____20 3/4"
Center of Wheel well to Ground__29 0"_______27 1/2"_____27 3/4"____27 1/2"

Bear in mind that I just pulled it back onto the lift and raised it up, so I didn't unload the suspension at any point. Therefore I think that these measurements should be very close to what they are when it's sitting on the ground.

My thinking is that the frame is (and should be) square with respect to the ground. This should give it the best geometry with respect to stability, handling and wheel alignment. The problem is purely aesthetics. A difference of a half inch or so side-to-side would hardly be noticeable, but 1 1/2 inches stands out pretty well. :( Is there some way to adjust the body with respect to the frame to minimize the difference, or will I have to adjust the frame up on one side and down on the other to reduce the differential?

Any suggestions would be most appreciated.

BTW, sorry about using the underscores to line up the columns [V]. I couldn't figure out how to make it do tabs.

[clayfoushee]

Ben,

I just measured mine, also on a lift after at least 200 miles since the suspension has been unloaded in any way. My car now has 5000 mi. on it, with no chassis changes, so it's "well-settled." Just to make sure we're comparing apples to apples, the measurements were taken with 245/60-15 and 275/60-15 BFG Radial TAs on Compomotive wheels.

I didn't do all of your measurements tonight and only measured from top of wheel well to lift ramp. Mine is overall lower than yours, but here's what I have:

LF 25 3/4
RF 25 7/8
LR 26 7/8
RR 26 15/16

At those settings the car appears to be sit perfectly level to the eye.

My guess is given variations different bodies (how they came out of the mold), chassis mounting, etc., some overall tweaking is probably required to make it sit just right to the eye.

Clay

'98 Unique #9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[Brent]

Ben,

Your right front is slightly lower. If you raise it, it will lower the left rear. It may not lower it enough but it will help.

Brent

[eliminator]

I told you it would drive you crazy!!!! I did the frame to ground leveling the first time. Didn't like the look, went back and just eyeballed the fender wells to the tires on each side, then adjusted the height,looks good and I can't tell any difference in the ride or handling, go figure.

Rick

[K.Wilson]

Ben,
When I set mine up, about 11 years ago, the Weavers told me "we just set them up so they look right", they don't have a frame to floor measurement they use because there are so many tire/wheel combinations that a single ride height measurement would not work for all applications.
I started with a 6 1/2 inch frame to floor at all four corners. After 200 miles it had dropped to 5 in front and 5 1/2 inches in the rear. I ended up with 6 1/4 inch in the rear and 6 inch in the front and I think this is where it looks best to me. With this ride height, the rear wheel lips were within 1/4 inch of each other; but the right front was 1 1/2 inches lower than the left.
I slotted the forward body mount holes and moved the right side up 1 inch and the left down 1/2 inch to get the lip height the same. I did it that way to have the same tire to fender lip gap on both sides. I had to relocate the holes for the front bumper on the right bumper support to make it fit right.
I added a large fender washer to the forward mount for added support and to cover the slots in the fiberglass.
You may want to wait until you have established your final ride height before you do the wheel alignment as the ride height will an impact on the camber/caster and toe to some extent.


Keith

[spd4me]

I've got the same problem with my FIA. The driver side rear is 1" higher than the Pass rear. The driver front is 1.5" lower than the Pass side front. If I adjust the driver side spring up 2" (of threads showing) the fender is even with the top of tire. The Pass side spring is adjusted all the way down and the fender sits 1.75" above the tire. I can only guess that the fiberglass may have a small amount of warp. I've thought about going from a 10 high spring to a 12" high on the driver side and drop the pass from the 10" to an 8".
K Wilson: what do you mean by "slotted the forward body mount holes"?
Can you just add some spacers between the body and frame?

[K.Wilson]

spd4me,
The forward body mounts are single bolts on each side (below the hood hinges)that go through the front inner fenders and through frame tabs.
Keith

[GeorgiaSnake]

Be careful if you relocate the body holes - the fenders will change shape and buldge out if you push down on the high side. I moved both holes and re-arched my wheel wells to get things looking better.

I think all of the FIA cars have a little twist in the body. No big deal really as you can't see it from the drivers seat:)

Randy

Unique 289 FIA
Southern Automotive 396
Team III 16's
Brilliant Silver

[spd4me]

K. Wilson
When you adjusted the front, did you remove the shocks and springs? Last night I set both springs at same hight (screwed up 1")and then measured fender to ground. My passenger side is 21/4" higher than the driver side. I removed the two front bolts and could barely get the front to move at all. Did you have to loosen the three bolts under seat? I'm going to call Maurice and see what he would suggest.

[K.Wilson]

spd4me,
Did you measure the frame to ground on a good flat floor for all four corners?
The adjustments on the rear will effect the front nearly as much as the rear......

Keith

[spd4me]

K.Wilson
With everything level and both front shock springs adjusted up 1", the Driver side front is 25", the pass side front is 271/4", the driver rear is 27", and the pass rear is 26" (measured to flare of fender. The frame is equal across front and rear. I talked to Maurice he said the body needs to sit all the way down on frame. My front springs are 325 lbs 10" high and he's going to let me try an 11" hight spring to see it I can raise the driver front some. If that works, I'll probably replace the pass side with a 8" high spring to see if it will lower it some. When I removed the front two body bolts, I couldn't get the body to move more than about 1/8" and it did begin to twist flare of opening.

[eliminator]

There is alot of info on ride height, just do a search;), this thread has some good info[^].

Rick
#4279405