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View Full Version : Rear Brake Job - How hard is it??



Russ Dickey
March 28th, 2004, 03:21 AM
Ok, I keep hearing horror stories about doing a rear brake job on my cars Jag IRS. I don't have do to it yet, but am just curious...how hard is it???

Russ

Unique 289FIA - Viking Blue

pgermond
March 28th, 2004, 04:13 AM
I had to remove a rear caliper after I snapped off a fitting. It wasn't easy, but having done it once it will be easier in the future. The trick is not to get in a hurry, have plenty of wrenches with varing degrees of angle, etc. available. The wrench's that saved me were a starter wrench and a thin tappet wrench. Stubbies are great also.

It took a quarter of the time to re-install than it did to remove. The safety wire was more of a pain than anything.

Like I said, it can be done pretty painlessly if you take your time (one quarter turn at a time [xx(] )

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

Russ Dickey
March 28th, 2004, 05:26 AM
So it's not true that you have to drop the entire differential assembly to access the rear brakes????



Unique 289FIA - Viking Blue

clayfoushee
March 28th, 2004, 05:33 AM
No definitely not!

Clay

'98 Unique #9299, 427FE side oiler, top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

Poorboy
March 28th, 2004, 08:20 AM
To just replace the pads you don't have to take off the calipers, just remove the 2 pins on each side. Slide the old pads out,new in.

Poorboy

Jim Harding
March 28th, 2004, 08:25 AM
Russ,

It all depends on how you define a brake job. If the rotors are A-OK, then just doing a pad swap can be done in few minutes. To rebuild the calipers or change the rotors requires a few more hours of work, easier with access to a lift, but can be done on your back with the car on stands. Somewhere in my archive I have a short cut procedure for doing this job. I'll look around to see if I can find it and send you a copy if you like.

- Jim -

PS - In all honesty however, dropping the whole rear end assembly gives you gobs of room to work on it.;)

Jim Harding
La Plata, Maryland

1982 #3004
http://www.capitalareacobraclub.com/albums/album26/1aLeftside.thumb.jpg

rdorman
March 29th, 2004, 02:19 AM
I think you pretty much have what you are looking for here. Changing pads is a snap and takes little time. Do check your rotors for lateral and radial run-out, thickness and cracking. If you have to R&R the rotors, it might be worth while just to drop the whole rear end (goes very quickly and you can give the whole assembly a good once over while it is all easy to get to, Don't forget to put some index type marks in place so that when you put the rear back in you will have it square and centered and then off to a GOOD alignment shop). Check all the fasteners and safety wire, bleed the system. Clean everything down with brake cleaner after you pull the pads but before you put the new ones in or start your inspection. If you have Wilwood calipers, rebuild them with every pad change. May sure they are normal to the rotors when you put them back on. Bed pads as directed.
Rick

Russ Dickey
March 29th, 2004, 03:16 AM
As always, a plethora of information from the Unique Cobra brotherhood. I appreciate it very much.

Thanks guys!

Russ

Unique 289FIA - Viking Blue

bittentoo
March 29th, 2004, 03:16 AM
rdorman,

Question, why do you have to rebuild the calipers when you are just replacing the pads?

rdorman
March 29th, 2004, 04:07 AM
If they are Wilwood calipers and they have been on the car long enough to wear out a set of pads, they should be rebuilt. Wilwood, like many racing calipers, do not have a dust shield/boot that prevents dirt from getting in around the piston. The OEM style with the dust boot, I generally only rebuild them when there is an issue.
Rick

Poorboy
March 29th, 2004, 04:32 AM
The OEM calipers that come from Unique do not have a dust shield around the pistons. Unless some thing is wrong you will wear out 3 sets of front pads for each set of rears.

Poorboy

excelguru
March 29th, 2004, 11:31 PM
I thought the rear brake job was pretty easy, myself. I had to rebuild the rear calipers last year when one of the seals started leaking. I just dropped the car off at the garage. A day later I picked up the car and wrote check for $150. Heck, I didn't even get my hands dirty! :D

Keith :)
Unique Motorcars (http://www.uniquecobrareplicas.com)
Southern Automotive (http://www.southernautomotiveengines.com)
Bruce Bunn (the painter) (http://www.jodecoautobody.com)

My Photo Album (http://members5.clubphoto.com/keith355593/owner-429c-1.phtml)

casaleenie
March 30th, 2004, 01:37 AM
Keith,

My style completely....:D
Just some things are better left to others... I have my skills and they have theirs...

AL

excelguru
March 30th, 2004, 08:07 AM
I have the skin on my nuckles and they don't have theirs! LOL.

Keith :)
Unique Motorcars (http://www.uniquecobrareplicas.com)
Southern Automotive (http://www.southernautomotiveengines.com)
Bruce Bunn (the painter) (http://www.jodecoautobody.com)

My Photo Album (http://members5.clubphoto.com/keith355593/owner-429c-1.phtml)

289/271
January 3rd, 2010, 04:35 PM
I'm building an FIA car and have heard rear brake work is easier with an access door cut in the bulkhead behind the seats. Does anyone have any photos of such a door? Would like to see other's ideas before I try it myself.

Barry
Viking blue FIA, red stripe, SA 302, CR top loader, Trigo pin drives