handling

[dmiller]

have there been any reports of how our replica cars handle compared to the originals? i guess that our frames are stiffer, and the IRS is an improvement over the solid leaf springs of the early AC's.

to be candid, and hope i don't get shot down as an infidel speaking out of school, but my car's handling doesn't inspire confidence. the front suspension is set up per the spec's in the manual, the rear suspension has not been set up, the rear camber is -4 degrees according to my measurements with a protractor. should be 0 degrees. tire presure is 28 psi all four corners. first visit to Jag dealer wasn't very informative, but i did learn that they have shims for the axles, but they didn't offer any suggestion on how much shim is required to correct a 4 degree camber.

my car is very twitchy on center, but once it is set into a turn, it becomes much more settled. the initial twitchy is my main concern. i've also noticed that the car wants to "track" a rut on poorly maintained asphalt roads (which is the norm in Louisiana).

i hesitate to send this message, i'm not trying to be negative, just concerned.

thanks

doug

[pgermond]

Doug,

I'm no expert by any means, and have never driven an "original", but I can say my car handles the straights-n-corners as well or better than anything I have ever driven. What fun :D

For what it's worth.................


Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

[eliminator]

dmiller,

Look up the old thread and use the alignment specifications I posted for the front and rear. If you sway bars, front and rear are not adjusted to neutral with the car on the ground that can cause a problem. Taking shims out reduce camber, putting them in adds positive camber, the shims are about .020-.030 thick. Ride height will effect camber front and rear so that needs to be set before any alignment is done. All this stuff takes a while it's just not a one day deal, at least it wasn't for me. Once it's set up the car will amaze you.

Rick
#4279405

[dmiller]

ok, still working on it.

[ralphscott]

Doug mine is steady and runs true. I run less air pressure 24/26 cold f/r. FRONT: L&R front camber 0.5 degrees negative. L&R front caster left 2-1/4 degrees positive; right 2-1/2 degrees postive. L&R front toe-in 1/32"
Front cross caster 0 degrees. Front total toe-in 1/16". REAR: L&R rear camber 0.5 degrees negative. L&R rear toe-in 1/32" (could run zero) Rear total toe-in 1/16" (could run zero) Rear thrust angle ideal 0 degrees but could run 15 degrees negative to 15 degrees positive. I also have a 428 with alum heads water pump and intake so it is about the weight of a stock 351W. I got the specifics of my set-up from the guy that does ours in Knoxville. Seems to work but it takes him 2-3 hours for him to do the initial setup, subsequent alignments are not as time consuming.

Ralph

[dmiller]

i'll be looking for another alignment shop. first attempt took 4 shops before found one that could get car on the machine, and then the tech didn't know how to do rear, and before your help on this forum, i didn't either.

thanks

doug

[ralphscott]

Doug I must be tired from the drive-- don't forget to adjust the sway bars front and back with all four wheels on the ground after the alignment and the shocks are settled. The bolts should slide easily in and out of the heim joint connections when you have the adjustment correct. This will make a HUGE difference in twitchyness. Sorry I left this out of the first message.

Ralph

[brfutbrian]

doug, to me these cars are very twitchy unless its driven very smoothly. it doesnt take much input to make the car twitch,almost everyone that drive my car drives it all over the road till i tell them to control the wheel smoothly. ive never had a problem driving my car, i just drive smooth naturally. youll probably lose most of the twitch with seat time. if i had to take a guess, id say .60 to .80 should get it where you want it. i went to my local jag dealer to see if the nuts that have to be loosened to install the shims (theyre jamb nuts) were reusable or not and the only guy that knew anything about the rears in these car was one oldtimer who was ready for retirement. so dont expect much help from them. by the way the nuts are reusable. later, brian

[gasman]

Doug, I'm having some of the same issues. The guy that built my car put two shims on the right rear shock tower which meant the left front had to be lowered by compressing the shock tower. Butch Capps reminded me while examing my car on the lift that "These aren't wedge cars". Tuning the suspension properly is on my short list.

Steve Foushee
Unique #4279389

[Brent]

Doug,
You may also want to experiment with tire pressure some. I started with 25-28 psi. I now run 19psi on all four corners and the tire sits better, looks better, rides better, and handles better.

Brent

[dmiller]

once again, you guys come thru for me,

thanks for all the suggestions,

i'm going to be busy on other projects this week, but start a new next week on the car.

thanks

doug