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dmiller
August 5th, 2004, 01:35 PM
is there any way to remove the broken oil dip stick tube that is in the front cover without removing the front cover?

i think the vibration caused me to loose the clamp that held the tube against the cyl head, and it broke off. the front case still has the broken part pressed into the receptical. i tried to make a retriever tool with a small piece of alum round stock, and cutting a notch into the end, hoping to be able to reach past the tube, hook the notch, and retrieve, but no luck.

i guess i could drive it thru, but i hate to think there is a piece of metal rattling around in the oil pan, hopefully it would fall to the bottom, but not sure.

i've made a temporary dip stick, using some alum. rod with a stop to allow me to check oil level. but would like to have the correct one again.

if there is a first time for something stupid to happen, i'm your man.

thanks

doug

jhaynie
August 5th, 2004, 01:42 PM
I can't picture what you're talking about.[?]

Do you have a picture:D

John

Unique 289FIA #9367
351W Fuel Injected

dmiller
August 5th, 2004, 01:58 PM
it would be difficult to photo, so here is another explantion. the dip passes thru a tube, the tube is is supposed to be pressed into the engine front cover ( covers the timing chain ). this tube is held in place with a clamp that bolts to the cyl head. the tube extends up to a level about even with the valve covers. the dip stick passes thru the tube, into the oil pan and indicates the oil level. i guess the bolt that held the tube against the cyl head vibrated off, allowing the tube to shake and rattle until it finally wore itself out and broke. it was still in place because the dip stick was still there, keeping it from falling completely off. but it is broken, and needs to be replaced. the part of the tube that is pressed into the front case is still in the case, broken off flush with the face of the case. i've tried to pull it a hook, but no joy.

hopw this helps. the engine is a 351 W. thanks

doug

Brent
August 5th, 2004, 02:09 PM
DO NOT drive it down into the motor. )-:

Spend about 1 hour removing the front cover and drive it out from the bottom. Replace the front cover and install a new dipstick with a clamp. (-:

Brent

nolastyankee
August 5th, 2004, 02:12 PM
Doug,
As you mentioned, the base of the dip stick tube is pressed in and is usually nice and tight. If the tube broke off at the base through vibration, I would say that it is in there tightly enough to make removal challenging. While taking the timing cover off is a pain, getting to that area without damaging something else in the engine bay or scratching the paint is going to be a challenge. I'd yank the cover my friend and save yourself the agony of potentially expensive damage - engine, paint or otherwise.

Unique 9122 - 289 FIA Cobra - The Legendary "Spence" Car

pgermond
August 5th, 2004, 05:28 PM
I can't added anything to what has been suggested.... bite the bullet, take the time, and do it right. A length of dipstick bouncing around in your oil pan is a receipt for disaster [xx(]

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

brfutbrian
August 5th, 2004, 08:31 PM
doug could you pull the oil pan and get it out? that might be a bit easier. brian

Scott McDowell
August 6th, 2004, 04:37 AM
How about running a tap into the tube. Not to tight but maybe just enough to grab the tube. Watch you don't create to many filings going down into the oil. ???

Scott

dmiller
August 6th, 2004, 04:41 AM
i have taken the "easy" way out, not sure that it will work but worth a try since it was so easy to try. i've used silcone to build a "socket" for the dip stick tube to rest in, and with the clamp to the cyl head, it appears to be firm. will try that, and see it it works.

as far as the suggestion of dropping the oil pan. i don't think i can access the tube from the bottom, because i have a "girdle" around the bottom of the block. this girdle even restricts the dip stick from passing smoothly into the oil pan. must hold the dip stick at an exact angle to make it pass the girdle.

hope the silcone pocket works. otherwise, i'll pull the front cover.

i'd rather drive than mechanic.

thanks for suggestions.

doug

dmiller
August 6th, 2004, 04:43 AM
i thought of the tap followed with screwing a bolt into. it might work but the angle will be difficult to work around. will try the silcone. and then consider the tap.

thank you.

jhaynie
August 6th, 2004, 07:15 AM
Speaking of "easy out", what about using one of those easyout tools that plumbers use to extract rusted out pipes, or one of the tools used to extract a stripped out stud? would you be able to press a new dipstick tube into the old one and leave it in place?

John

Unique 289FIA #9367
351W Fuel Injected

Brent
August 6th, 2004, 07:32 AM
Metal shavings in the pan, you guys MUST be kidding....right?

It only takes one shaving to scar a bearing.

Brent

brfutbrian
August 6th, 2004, 12:02 PM
quote:Originally posted by Brent

Metal shavings in the pan, you guys MUST be kidding....right?

It only takes one shaving to scar a bearing.

Brent
sounds like an expensive lesson in the making. brian

KrAzEcJ
August 6th, 2004, 01:59 PM
quote:Originally posted by brfutbrian


quote:Originally posted by Brent

Metal shavings in the pan, you guys MUST be kidding....right?

It only takes one shaving to scar a bearing.

Brent
sounds like an expensive lesson in the making. brian


<<<<<<<<< doesnt need anymore expensive lessons.

most resent expensive lesson for CJ, just because your motor is in the garage sealed up it isnt ok.

dmiller, the damage it "could" do isnt worth the risk. You will kick yourself if it gets in your rotating assembly and like Brent said all it takes is a few metal shavings much less a whole piece. Have you tried taking off the water pump and removing all the timing cover bolts and looked to see if theres enough slack to get it out without having to pull the balancer? Or has it already dropped into the oil pan?

dmiller
August 6th, 2004, 02:09 PM
i'm not going to push the remaining tube into the pan!

i'm not going to do anything that allows metal cuttings into the pan!

as of right now, the problem is solved, simply, if not very elegantly. the silcone appears to have made a good bond to the tube, and with the clamp bolted to the cyl head it is holding it in place. after the silcone cures fully, tomorrow, back to driving!

if this silcone doesn't hold up, then i'll start removing front end stuff, until i can safely remove the broken off tube that is firmly pressed into the front cover, and install new one.

thanks to all.

doug

pgermond
August 6th, 2004, 07:30 PM
I would sure like to see a picture of that setup :D:D:D;)

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)