Cluth hydraulic fluid

[pgermond]

After 1,200 mi I popped the cap on the clutch m/c and the fluid level is fine, except the hydraulic fluid is black. So, it's time for a flushing this weekend. To those of you who have done this before, my question is this - Is it best to simply flush the lines, m/c, and slave cylinder with new fluid until it runs clean... or?

One of my winter projects is to re-route the line and add some additional insulation (can't have enough, right? :D)

Thanks!

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

[brfutbrian]

phil, try to get as much of the burnt fluid out of the m/c as you can before you start flushing. use an old turkey baister. youll flush it out without wasting as much new fluid. yes, you need to insulate the line, or reroute a new one. later brian

[gasman]

Phil, I am in the process of re-routing the lines while my motor is out of the car. Brent has a pretty good picture posted of his engine compartment. It shows how his lines are up and away from header heat. (search for Thumper 2 thread) He also sent me a diagram of how his lines were routed up and into the foot box. You'll have to pull your carpet out on the drivers side and maybe the tunnel. There is no copy right protection mentioned on his diagram, if you would like I can send it to you with a fax number.

Sincerely, Your X agent

Steve Foushee
Unique #4279389

[eliminator]

Phil,

I would recommend using Wilwood 570 High Temp fluid, and yes insulate all you can.

Rick
#4279405

[pgermond]

Gasman,

I saw mention of how Brent route his lines and that he had a diagram. If you don't mind faxing it, that would be great - 916-786-4333. Though I'm not to thrilled about ripping out the carpet... all depends.

Thanks for the offer!


Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

[rdorman]

Agreed on the advise. It will gravity bleed.

Run the lines IN the cockpit? Mine run upward over the footbox, along the fire wall and then down the tunnel to the tranny. No problems and no lines inside.

Rick

[clayfoushee]

Phil,

Rick is right. My lines are still in the conventional place near the headers, but well insulated. After extensive idling, I could feel my clutch "going away" no doubt due to the heat. I switched to the high temp Wilwood stuff before DVSFIV, and the problem disappeared. The fluid is still clear more than 1500 miles later.

Clay

'98 Unique #9299, 427FE side oiler (454-stroker), top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[souzape]

Phil G.- I bought some insulative wrap tubes(heat reflective) from Jegs...comes in various diameters and you can slit it to put it over the lines. Seems to fit well and looks like the material should be effective. Just put it on so I don't have results yet but I'll keep you informed.

Phil S.

[brfutbrian]

i scrapped all the master cyl. lines and re routed them with stainless braided stuff with aeroquip steel fitting when i built mine . i knew the stock ones would have a heat problem. later, brian

[eliminator]

One word of advice , dont wrap[V]. Buy the sheathing that is the smallest , 1/2" I think, 3 foot lengths. Take the line loose and slip over the entire line. Pull it back where you have a fitting making the connection then slide it over the connection;). Made by Cool It, Thermo Tech, and Design Engineering makes some too. Cool It, sold by JEGS and Design Engineering is sold by Summitt.

Rick
#4279405

[eliminator]

Phil,

By the way where did you buy that Cluth anyway????????:D:D:D

Rick
#4279405

[clayfoushee]

Rick, that's sounds like something my brother or I might have said, but I told myself, "I must resist....I must resist!";) I don't want Brent calling me an a$$hole, and then telling me that he loves me too often[}:)].

Clay

'98 Unique #9299, 427FE side oiler (454-stroker), top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[pgermond]

Thanks for the advise everyone. My line is insulated with the Cool-It sheathing Rick referred too. I also fab'd a heat shield that is mounted under the m/c's (photo attached) to deflect some of the heat from the header. It has been a long, long day, and the brain is as fried as the hydraulic fluid - what am I missing here ?
quote:By the way where did you buy that Clutch anyway????????

http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/pgermond/Master cylinder heat shield.JPG

http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/pgermond/Master cylinders heat shield.JPG

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

[clayfoushee]

Are you missing the Wilwood hi-temp fluid?

I've seen others do that shield, but have always wondered whether that actually helps or maybe even hurts. It does block some air flow around the master cylinders, and unless it's very well insulated heats up too!

I don't have one. As I said above, I already had the insulation, but the high-temp fluid solved my remaining issue.

Clay

'98 Unique #9299, 427FE side oiler (454-stroker), top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[eliminator]

Phil,

Go to active topics and look at your inital post:" Cluth hydraulic fluid ".
GOTYA
Clay,
The heat shield that Phil is showing is a must, now on the bottom side of it I have aluminized Heat Barrier, 2000 degree, applied with Sticky Stuff adhesive. This the same heat barrier material I used under my aluminum and under the fenders on my car. No way it hurts as it deflect direct header heat, especially in stop and go conditions.

Rick
#4279405

[pgermond]

[8][8]

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

[gasman]

Phil, do you have insulation under your master cylinder baffle plate?

Steve Foushee
Unique #4279389

[pgermond]

Steve - yes, also up above the m/c's under the fenders on both sides to help protect the paint and fiberglass

Rick - I've been using hi-temp DOT 5 fluid, but decided to follow your advise. I stopped by the local speed shop this afternoon and picked up a 16.9 fl oz bottle of Wilwood EXP 600 Plus Super Hi-Temp Racing Brake Fluid [:O] YIKES!!!! $25.99 [xx(] For that many duckets this "cluth" (I didn't realize there so many editors on this forum :D) better work reeeally good or I'm gonna be :( And I though that purple stuff was spendy [xx(]

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

[brfutbrian]

are any of you guys who are using m/c shields close off the holes in the inner fender panels that the louvers install thru ? i left mine open and installed a piece of gutter screen between the fiberglass and the aluminum when i finished the inner fender. between that and rerouting the lines during the build, ive never had any burnt fluid/ fade issues.no exotic fluid, no heat shields, lotsa driving, no problems. am i just lucky? brian.

[pgermond]

Mine are open, as is everything else to gain as much circulation as possible. I have insulated the lines, but do need to re-route some to avoid heat from the headers. The temp here is another issue for me (100+ today).

I'm just grinning and bearing it. If everything were perfect I would probably sell the car out of boredom :D


Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

[eliminator]

Phil,

That is Premium Grade Stuff, the Wilwood 570 is not that EXPENSIVE.

Rick
#4279405