Project - Dash/Gauge Replacement

[patrija]

Took the plunge and ordered a set of Autometer, Lucas switches, etc. and new dash. Waiting for all the parts to arrive. Work in progress. Below is dash removed with masking tape marking where every wire went - hopefully no mistakes in rewire! Old dash has found a new home in the "Spence car"
http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/patrija/wires.jpg


While the dash is out, I'm looking at rerouting my speedometer cable. You can see it next coming through the firewall next to the steering column hole in the picture below. Any ideas on running this somewhere else to hide it? Biggest problem is existing hole in the firewall.
http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/patrija/speedo.jpg

[pgermond]

That spaghetti looks familiar [xx(] Althought it looks like you are doing it the right way [^]

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

[patrija]

I've been looking more at my mess of wires on top of the passenger footbox (battery cutoff, ignition box, and solenoid ... and am now considering cleaning that up while the dash is apart. I'm looking at putting the solenoid either behind the dash or on the frame (a la Creeper). Bigger cleanup would be moving the ignition box. As you can see in the 2nd picture, my wiper motor and fuse box are in the passenger side already - any ideas on where/how to mount the fuse box somewhere other than in the engine bay?

Another question, do most of you only have 2 toggle switches that do anything? I have one for my fans (no thermostat switch) and one for my wipers. Others are "dummy". Any proper order to the switches in an SC style dash?

[pgermond]

I mounted my MSD behind the dash on the passenger side and mounted the solenoid on the backside of the head (passenger side). No problems and out of site and the elements.

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

[pgermond]

You asked -

Phil - Thanks for the continued advice. Quick question on your post - how did you mount the MSD box? Did you run screws through the mount holes into the back of the fiberglass firewall? Also, you said you mounted the solenoid on the backside of the "head"

Okay, here you go - mounted the MSD box on the cowl and the solenoid on the head. Very clean and easy access. I'll post this on the forum as well for future refernce for others.

http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/pgermond/Fuse panel - MSD.JPG

http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/pgermond/P1010002.JPG

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

[patrija]

Progress update. New dash is below, minus tachometer that has to be replaced due to a bad "face".
http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/patrija/new_dash.jpg

While waiting for the new tach, I started cleaning up the engine bay a bit. Moved the MSD box behind the dash, attached the starter solenoid to the header (thanks Phil!) and now have a much cleaner footbox - albeit with a lot of holes. Not totally done yet, but a good night's work.
http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/patrija/new_msd.jpg
http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/patrija/solenoid.jpg
http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/patrija/footbox.jpg

[pgermond]

That looks familiar - it sure cleaned up the engine compartment and looks great [^] I'm surprised you had a problem w/the tach, but I suppose s#@* happens....... unfortunately.

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

[pgermond]

I just reread your original post and you asked about the fuse panel. If you look at the photos I posted, you will see that I mounted mine to the left of the steering column. I used long bolts through the firewall with wing nuts on the inside. That way, I can drop it down for easy access if need be.

Just a suggestion if you are still in process.

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

[patrija]

Tach was a bit strange, there is a white space beteween the glass front and the black face. Problem is the top of the black face was bent forward to the glass, so the whate space was only on the bottom. Looked funny, so called Finish Line and replacement on the way. Thanks for the thoughts on the fuse box, I think I'll end up leaving mine put as I can reach it to replace the fuses and already have too many holes to plug.

The things that are bugging me now (since I have time to wait for the tach to arrive):

(1) the speedo cable, plus have to figure out where to run the two mechanical temp sensors. I'm really considering drilling new hole for these three to run into the tunnel instead of the firewall. Of course that leaves me with another hole (current speedo cable) to figure out how to plug. :(

(2) need to decide whether i'm going to stay with the large (and lots of wires) Ford regulator or switch to the Transpo one. Those are the remaining wires on the passenger side in the last picture.

BIG SUGGESTION - Take the extra time to do your wiring right during the build, it's a royal pain in the arse to redo after the fact.

[pgermond]

I can appreciate what you are saying about, "doing it after the fact." I'm using the Transpo and, while folks have stated they have had problems, I haven't (fingers crossed) to-date. It makes things a lot cleaner.

I routed my speedo cable along the tranny inside the tunnel and came through the tunnel where it 90's on the passenger side and ran it right into the speedo.

I drilled one hole in the firewall for the mechanical sensors. The photo should help explain. The water temp is routed to the passenger side and goes into the loom - the oil pan temp runs over the intake manifold in the loom (along with the coil wires and oil pressure line)and down the front of the engine. Not as clean as some, but not having anything to go by, this was the best I could come up with at the time.

I have thought about rerouting everything to put it out of sight, but I'm not that ambitious at this point ;)


http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/pgermond/firewall wiring.JPG

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

[patrija]

Thanks for the continued good info. I highly suggest you make sure you're REALLY motivated if you ever start, because once you do it's hard to only do half of it (as I originally planned).

[eliminator]

Another great place for the starter solenoid, this is the forward roll bar mount used by the FIA but on all frames. Drilled and tapped 1/4 - 20 and mounted to the frame. Close to the starter and wiring from the battery.
http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/eliminator/Cobra Build 019.jpg

Rick
#4279405

[weaver]

Rick, is that a scratch I see on your block plate, you will need to remove and repaint that before open house, the judges will take off points for that.

Alan

[nolastyankee]

Rick,
That is really a clean, invisible mount for the starter solenoid. The only question that I have is whether it is safe from water or road debris? I know that your car doesn't go out in the rain, but an accidental puddle splash is inevitable at some point. Any concern about shorting that thing out?

Unique 9122 - 289 FIA Cobra - The Legendary "Spence" Car

[patrija]

Rick - I was planning to use that mount point, but since I already have the holes in my firewall I decided it would look better to use them.

nolastyankee - SW Gauges will ship to you on Saturday. I'll send them 2 day UPS.

I went ahead and ordered a new alternator, Powermaster 170781 based on some of the old threads here. Should arrive tomorrow and I'll get that hooked up to reduce some more wires. I know alternator wiring was covered in some of the old threads, but for some reason mine looks different. There is the heavy red wire that I believe goes to the BAT connection on the alternator. On my current external regulator there are: (1) a bunch of wires that are taped off, (2) one (or two, can't remember) wires that goes to the alternator, and (3) one wire that is splice into two separate wires - one white and one yellow. White appears to go the ignition and yellow goes to the solenoid - do I need these wires anymore?

[eliminator]

Brian,
It has actually been in the rain,(briefly), no problem. There is minimal road debri in this area. Since there are several cars with this same solenoid location we have not had any problems. No heat, out of the way, simple installation.
Patrija,
Use the small regulator that attaches to the alternator, then you will have a one wire hook up, the heavy red one.

Rick
#4279405

[patrija]

Rick - Thanks.

Another clarity question - the way this is working out, it does not appear anything will be hooked up to the "I" connection on the solenoid. Does that sound right? I ask because I previously had a connection when using the large external regulator: connected to the "I" of the solenod was the MSD box red wire and another wire (yellow) that was spliced with the both the white ignition wire and to a white wire from the plastic connector to the voltage regulator. My rewiring project has the MSD box red wire spliced to the white ignition wire and moving to a one-wire alternator that is connected to the back to the Ammeter. This seems to make sense based on the wiring diagrams and previous threads - but didn't seem right to have an empty "I" for some reason. Thanks for all the help!

[pgermond]

Jason,

You have mail.

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

[Slither]

Mounting the solenoid to the back of the head seems like a HOT topic... pun intended :D. Are these things rated for such extreme temperature? At a minimum, it seems like it would shorten the product lifespan... roast solenoid, anyone? Thoughts?

Paul

289 FIA

2899464

408 Windsor

Toploader (wide)

3.07 rear

[pgermond]

It's been a year and haven't had a problem.

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

[brfutbrian]

mines been mounted on the head for 4 years and 6000 miles with no problem. brian.

[patrija]

Good to hear on the solenoid mounting.

I'm almost done my dash replacement project that has turned into a "rewire 90% of the car" exercise. Dash is wired except waiting for replacement tach from Finishline; MSD box, solenoid, and related wiring are moved off the passenger footbox; changed to Powermaster 1 wire alternator; and running all engine bay wires down by the oil pan.

http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/patrija/dash_wire.jpg

http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/patrija/under_car.jpg

Downside is that this left me with two 1" unused holes in the firewall that had been used for wires. I found some white nylon plugs at Lowe's that I'll plug these with so they're hopefully less obvious (white car).

http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/patrija/dash_hole.jpg

Hope to wrap up tomorrow AM ... and then start diagnosing my mistakes. :D

[pgermond]

I have been inspired! :D[^]:D (next winter);)

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

[GeorgiaSnake]

I've been inspired as well - and will send my car to Jason as soon as he finishes his. [:o)]

Randy

Unique 289 FIA #2899420
Southern Automotive 396
Team III 16's
Brilliant Silver

[ralphscott]

Brian that is where mine is as well. No problems it is like it does not exisit. Also it makes it real easy to run your wires along the top of the lip of the oil pan to keep the engine compartment free of wires. To get to the distributor bring the wires up between the block and the water pump. I like a clean firewall.

Ralph

[patrija]

Update: all wires are run, engine turns over, and appears that everything is working .... EXCEPT that I don't have spark. Alan gave me some ideas to track it down, but it may have to wait till Monday. Other challenge I ran into is the manual water temp sensor was too short to run under the engine, so it's now on top until I send it to Autometer to get a longer sensor.

[patrija]

Been in the garage since 7:30 am - hoping to put this thing to bed today. Nice to have a holiday on Monday. I do have spark but saw some arcing on top of the coil when removed the plug wire from the coil to the distributor, so going to get a new coil to see if that makes a difference.

White nylon plugs were too small, but found some chrome hole plugs at Lowes that fit perfectly. They're move obvious than white would be, but obviously look better than a big hole through the dash. Also found a nice ($$$) high temp (<> 1000deg F) wire loom with chrome finish. Looks good and shouldn't have to worry about it melting like my old black loom did. http://cableorganizer.com/convoshield/

[clayfoushee]

My starter solenoid is also mounted to the frame, but tucked inside the drivers side frame rail. I HAVE been caught several times in torrential rains with significant ponding water splashing over the windshield. I had 4 inches of water in the footwells, but no problems with the solenoid.

Clay

'98 Unique #9299, 427FE side oiler (452.1-stroker), top-loader (close), 3.31 rear

Annapolis, MD

[patrija]

Turns out the postive wire's round connector for the coil had cut the rubber between the postive post and the spark plug connector. Talked to MSD and they said that is causing the arcing I saw on top of the coil and therefore inconsistent spark. New coil ... and HOUSTON ... WE HAVE IGNITION! Now to put everything back together.

[patrija]

All done, everything went quick once I figured out the ignition problem. Went for a quick test drive and all gauges worked, so putting a bow on this winter's project. Thanks for all the advice, particularly Alan who fielded several phone calls from me.

New gauges and dash. Ignore all the mess, haven't cleaned up yet.
http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/patrija/gauges_left.jpg

Removed 2 large wire looms that were coming through the firewall and filled hole with chrome plugs. Cleaned up the passenger footbox and wiring by moving MSD ignition and solenoid. Replaced external voltage regulator and alternator with a Powermaster 1-wire chrome. Had to run the water temp gauge over the intake for now, but will run under car once I get a longer sender from Autometer.
http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/patrija/engine_right.jpg
http://www.uniquecobra.com/uploaded/patrija/engine_left.jpg

[pgermond]

Turned out very clean [^]

Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

[weaver]

Man I did a good job.

Alan

[patrija]

Yes you did! Dash looks and fits perfect, thanks!

[patrija]

Was out driving this past weekend and have questions on two of the gauges. Thoughts?

1) My gas gauge goes from E to F with about 10 gallons. I think we have a 20 gallon tank? Is there a way to adjust this to be more accurate? I suppose I like the big reserve, but I was getting approximately 11 mpg on the highway drive so it goes from F down to E real fast!

2) My speedo was reading: (1) 70 when I was doing 62, and (2) 80 when I was doing 70. I think I read there is a small gear on the speedo cable into the transmission that can be changed?

[pgermond]

Jason,

I don't know of a way to adjust the fuel gauge reading, however, I'm certain there is. Mine reads lower than actually, which I prefer [^]

As for the speedo, mine reads approximately 5 mph lower than my actual speed (i.e. reading at 65 mph, I'm actually at 70 mph). You can change gears (number of teeth) on the nylon speedo gear that goes in the trans if you want to be exact (some trial-n-error involved here), but I have learned to live with it.

Hope that helps.


Phil

427 Roadster, #4279436
Southern Automotive FE
3:31 and Toploader

Roseville (N.Cal)

[Naumoff]

Jason,

What type of sending unit does Unique use? If it is a Float on a rod that slides a contact along a resistor like most sending units its probably needs to be bent down a little to keep the sending unit from reading empty to soon. It would be trial and error to get it right. If you could pull the sending unit out without pulling the tank it will be easy. My Jeep Is a Pain and I left it with a 5 gallon reserve. 15 gallon tank and 13 mpg not much range. I like to think about the gas station sooner than Later.If the gauge reads full right at a full tank than the rod length will have to be changed to get a full range of motion from the float.If the rod is to long than bending the rod down to get a more accurate E reading will give you a false F ready. But this all dependens on the style of sending unit.
Just my 2cents. If there is an easier way I'd like to know.
Tony


Unique 427 427s/o Nascar toploader 3.31 Jag IRS