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patrija
May 3rd, 2005, 07:01 PM
Had my Homecoming scare last weekend. Driving back home from a spirited ride and get a sudden loud rotational thunking noise in the rear end. Quickly pull over. Noise goes away when car is in neutral, but noise immediately returns when put into any gear. Car ends up on a flatbed and towed to a local shop. Thinking pinion gear, universal joint, or worse...?

GOT LUCKY! Somehow (probably loosened over time), the four bolts from the driveshaft to differential pinion flange sheared off. Install four SAE Grade 5 bolts, lock washers, and lock tight ... and now I'm good to go. Cheapest flatbed tow fix I've ever had.
Moral of the story ... CHECK YOUR BOLTS before the homecoming cruise!

Slither
May 3rd, 2005, 07:48 PM
Yikes [:O] [:O]!! Good advice... also speaks to the need for the safety-hoop around the drive shaft ;).

Paul

289 FIA

2899464

408 Windsor

Toploader (wide)

3.07 rear

TurnpikeBoy
May 4th, 2005, 05:03 AM
[:O] That would rattle anybody's cage real good.

BUT - get back under the car and do two (2) things - (1) replace those Grade 5 bolts with Grade 8's and equal nuts/washers; and (2) while you are under there, put a socket on all the others. Check shocks, suspension, engine/trans mounts, steering mounts/couplings, calipers and brackets, etc.

Will take you a couple hours, tops, but your peace of mind - not to mention your very existance - will be secured.

Yeehah

eliminator
May 4th, 2005, 05:26 AM
Besides Grade 8 bolts on this connection, use flat washers (grade 8) not lock washers and Grade 8 NyLock Nuts. Lock washers cannot be torqued effectively. These can be found at Bolt and Nut dealers or Heavy Equipment Dealers.

Rick
#4279405

nolastyankee
May 4th, 2005, 05:56 AM
Rick is right on the money here, but I would caution against using nylock nuts anywhere in the rear suspension, and especially here where there is brake heat involved. The brakes will get hot and the nylon could definitely soften (if not melt) and it will not be an effective lockup device for the threads. Any good nut and bolt supply, or even Napa, should have 'staked nuts' which are a locking nut that does not use the nylon insert. The stake nut slightly cuts the bolt thread when going on and is virtually permanent. These are all metal and the lockup properties are impervious to heat.

Jag used these as OEM on their rear ends.

Brian Carlson

Unique 9122 - 289 FIA Cobra - The Legendary "Spence" Car

Master
May 4th, 2005, 08:24 AM
All good info, Thanks


Scott
4279454
SA 428
3:54

nolastyankee
May 4th, 2005, 08:54 AM
Sorry, my bad. I was thinking half shaft, not drive shaft. I have my 'ends' mixed up!

Nylock should be fine for that application, but my preference is still staked nuts.

Look at Gripco Grade C Crownlock. This is the OEM type used by Jaguar.

http://www.tropicfast.com/Frame_pgs/frmGripCo.asp

Brian Carlson

Unique 9122 - 289 FIA Cobra - The Legendary "Spence" Car

brfutbrian
May 4th, 2005, 10:49 AM
nylock nuts are the only way to go. my driveshaft loosened up 3 three times before i changed to them. even loctite didnt work on my car. later, brian