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View Full Version : How to ID a 302 Ford Motor Year



Rickd
May 16th, 2005, 06:52 PM
The guy who sold me his 289 FIA said "his buddy" took care of the engine buy & build, and he lost contact with him. Not sure what year the motor is. Thought it was a Ford Motorsports 302 HO motor purchased new in '98 (sans heads). But he's not sure. How can I find id numbers on the motor (without removing the transmission to find the casting number). Are there any? Appreciate your comments.
Thanks,

Rick

289 FIA, #9299, Viking Blue, 302 HO, T-5

Slither
May 16th, 2005, 10:15 PM
Rick,

I think that if you look just above the oil pan rail on the passenger's side toward the back of the block, there should be casting numbers embossed on a small panel. The first character (a letter) indicates the decade (C for 60s, D for 70s, etc.) and the second character is the year. So, D4 is a 74 block, F2 is a 92, etc. Hope this helps...

Paul

289 FIA

2899464

408 Windsor

Toploader (wide)

3.07 rear

Rickd
May 17th, 2005, 03:33 AM
Paul, thanks for the tip. I will check it out asap. I appreciate it!!
Rick

289 FIA, #9299, Viking Blue, 302 HO, T-5

Slither
May 17th, 2005, 07:41 PM
OK, let us know whacha' got ;)

Paul

289 FIA

2899464

408 Windsor

Toploader (wide)

3.07 rear

Rickd
May 23rd, 2005, 12:45 PM
Paul. Just had a chance to borrow the pit at the local oil change shop to check the casting number. No luck. Look like it's behind the starter motor and I didn't have the time to remove it to check. Will need to get it done another day. Interesting however is the fact that on the DRIVERS side of the block there were some casting letters and number (not the ID number). There was a "Z" and what looked like 4 numbers above the Z arranged in a circle.

I understand that Z was a part number designator for Mustangs. Could this be an indicator that this MIGHT be a 1976 Mustang 302 block? That has been used to build the motor in my cobra? Definitely need to get the starter motor off and find out for sure. I am planning, in the next month or so, to replace the cast iron heads most likely with the Edelbrock Performer RPM's (since the motor already has the Edelbrock Performer RPM intake).

Thanks for your input,
Rick

289 FIA, #9299, Viking Blue, 302 HO, T-5

Slither
May 24th, 2005, 01:21 PM
Anyone else want to weigh in on this[?] I wonder if the circular arrangement is a time/date-stamp for the casting[?]

I am under the impression that FRPP sells remanufactured short/long blocks through their retail business. They have authorized rebuilders. So, yes it seems that you could have a mid-seventies block in your car.

The best way to ID is to get to the casting numbers. I just checked my 351W, and it is in the same place, passenger's side toward the back of the block.

The Performer RPM package sounds like a good plan. Will you use the matched cam as well? That should get you right where you want for power to the wheels. Good luck, and keep us posted... with pics;)

Paul

289 FIA

2899464

408 Windsor

Toploader (wide)

3.07 rear

Rickd
May 24th, 2005, 05:01 PM
Paul, I've got to get the block id by removing the starter motor. Then I'm trying to plan the motor "tweak" with my mechanic. He used to do a lot of Steeda Performance work and is talking up a Steeda cam and Trick Flow heads. He is also suggesting a Steeda intake. He doesn't think the Edelbrocks are 'performance' enough.

My thoughts are that the Edelbrock components, while maybe not the best overall, having "flow matched" heads and intake, should provide a big boost, and I can add any decent cam, and get an overll streetable car with a good HP reserve. (also the street Demon carb). The trick flow heads might be a good option .. but I need to research it first. Makes no sense to get heads that are more powerful than the intake. I will definitely take photos of the process. Need to replace radiator hoses as well. Should look a LOT better and RUN .. RUN. Adios. Rick

289 FIA, #9299, Viking Blue, 302 HO, T-5

Slither
May 24th, 2005, 11:22 PM
Rick,

I think your idea about the Edelbrock parts is the way to go. Your mechanic has a good point about the performance level of the Edelbrock stuff, but... what type of performance do you want to build/pay for?

The best thing about the Edelbrock stuff is that it is matched and is pretty much guaranteed to work at the performance level that they specify. Though it might not be spectacular, you can trust that it will do what it was intended to. If you decide to go a different route, you should get some performance results of the exact combination prior to ordering parts. That way you know what you are getting into ;).

How about some engine builders weighing in here... [?][?][?]

Paul

289 FIA

2899464

408 Windsor

Toploader (wide)

3.07 rear

Rickd
July 14th, 2005, 07:59 AM
Took time to get around to getting on a lift to pull the starter motor. Had to take the FIA in to check a leak in the gas tank. The weld around the fuel line fitting has become porous, with fuel coming through. We put sealant on as a temporary fix and I'm ordering a new tank from Unique.

The motor ID. The stamps on the passenger side of the block were:
29
E7TE (these are the id numbers for the cylinder heads)
CAS
9D4

So it looks like this is 1974 mustang block that came stock with E7TE heads. There is a Z casting mark on the drivers side, which I understand is an ID number for a mustang part.

Right now planning on buying the following for upgrades after research to get a 'balanced' package:

-Trick Flow Twisted Wedge cylinder heads from Panhandle
Performance. They buy the castings and build each head for
your motor specs (ie. roller cam, etc.), using Ferea valves
and they also port the bowl.

-Speed Demon carb from Don Gould. He takes the stock carb, and
tears it down to insure it's OK, and then sets it up for your
motor, cam, etc., etc.

-Racer Brown cam. Referred to him by Don. For a mild street motor
we are going with a 220 / 220 ; .50 .50 cam with 8 degree lobe
separation. Similar to the E cam from Ford racing, just a couple
thousandths more lift and a slightly tighter lobe separation.

-Comp cams pro magnum roller rockers.

Will do this in late August, along with gas tank replacement. Can't wait. It is really cool doing the research and talking to people who know their shXX!!

Thanks for your input!!

Rick




289 FIA, #9299, Viking Blue, 302 HO, T-5

Rickd
July 14th, 2005, 08:34 AM
I stand corrected. I just spoke with Panhandle Performance and they confirmed that my motor, if the BLOCK has the casting mark E7TE, it is in fact a 1987 302 block, and that particular year has the TRW forged pistons, so I will not have any problems putting on the Trick Flow heads. Finally.

Adios,
Rick

289 FIA, #9299, Viking Blue, 302 HO, T-5