T/stat ???

[Rocky]

I have a 390 FE with 428 Edelbrock heads and Intake. I have a Stainless Steel Tank, and the T/stat does not fit securely in it. What PN# t/stat have any of you used that work?

[TurnpikeBoy]

It goes in the expansion tank? Those usually go in the manifold, under a removable neck that bolts onto same.

'Course, bigblocks are a hair different from smallblocks :)

[eliminator]

The thermosatat for the FE is a Chrysler application. I will check at home as I have a spare. Be use you use a 180 degree, the FE engine dosn't like the 160 degree thermostat.

[Rocky]

Thanks for the info. I used to have 70 'Cuda, so I got a T/Stat for that vintage and it fit like a glove.

Thanks again

[twanita]

rick, why? doesn't the 160 just start circulating coolant a little earlier. jim o.

[pgermond]

I'm picking up on an old topic that I would like to pursue. I was out in the foothills this morning (where it is much cooler) and noticed that I had to blip the accelerator to get my idle down from 1500 to 900 rpm. I also noticed that my mpg was way off for the day. What I discovered is that my choke was not opening completely, however, once I got back down to the flat lands where it was a little warm and more stop-n-go the problem went away. I started thinking about this and remembered that I installed a 160 degree thermostat recommended by SA. I'm thinking the engine isn't staying at a temp when it is cool/cold to operate the electric choke properly and I need to bump up the thermostat to 180. The puzzling thing is, I've never had this problem before today.

Any thoughts on this?

Rick - a couple of years back you posted regarding an up grade for a 3310 Holley using a 1/2" spacer and a Proform Body from Summit. Is that still your recommendation?

Thanks in advance.

[eliminator]

Phil,

I am not a fan of a choke on a high performance engine. Your weather is much better than ours and you do not need the choke.
Yes, I still like the Pro Form 3310 body, (no choke), a phenolic spacer is a must, and a 180 degree thermostat.

Don't know who informed you about the 160 degree thermostat but that is totally wrong. The FE engine needs the 180 degree heat in the intake to get the right combustion, it dosn't like it too cool.

Even in 40-50 degree weather I pump mine 3-4 times and it fires up, keep the rpm at 1200 RPM until it gets to 130-140 degrees (which is pretty quick) then you ready to go. None of us in this part of the country are running chokes.

If you make these changes you will be amazed how much that engine of yours will "WAKE UP". You will like it. If you do this be sure to set your front and rear float level, very critical on any engine.

[pgermond]

Thanks Rick. The choke has given me fits off and on since day one. The 160 degree is recommended in the SA manual - actually it recommends not to use one at all but if must, use 160.

I'll get this stuff ordered and let you know. Thanks again.

[JeepSnake]

Here's the info I've been told on running the 160, as well as personal observations.

The figure I've often been told is that an engine wears ~5 times faster at 160 degrees than at 180 degrees coolant temperature. A major factor in this is that the carb or injection has to run overly rich to compensate for the cool intake manifold, resulting in significant fuel wash on the cylinder walls.

Our FIA had a 160 degree t-stat in it when we got it, along with Holley TBI. It would not idle at all when cool, didn't like to idle once it had warmed up, and had bad stumbles/hesitation in acceleration. Additionally, the exhaust constantly smelled of raw, unburnt gas. With nothing more than a change to a 180 degree stat, the idle issues were solved, and the acceleration problem about 85% cured. The unburnt fuel smell disappeared as well.

Now, for the theoretical side of why you want to run the 180 degree stat.

First, the hotter you can run an engine - short of materials meltdown - the more efficient it is. We can only go so far though, because we have to account for thermal expansion in our tolerances, thermal breakdown of metals, etc.

Second, the hotter you can run the coolant, the better it will transfer the heat that you must reject from the system (to prevent meltdown). The water/coolant-to-air heat exchanger in you car (sorry, but it's NOT a radiator!) works more efficiently when you have a larger temperature difference between the coolant and the surrounding air. Temperature difference is what creates heat flow in this instance.

Just some thoughts.

[pgermond]

180 being implanted tomorrow. Partial broken wire caused the intermittent choke malfunction.... still plan on changing to the Pro Form carb body.

Thanks all for the advice :)

[spd4me]

I took the choke and main body off my Holley 750 and put in a ProForm last summer. It realy made a difference in allowing air into carb. So much so I may need to up the jets from the standard 72 to a 74 and probably bump the meter plat to match.
Bob

[spd4me]

Forgot to mention, mine is a 396W Stroker. You may want to see if anyone else has replaced body and if they changed jets. It's easier to do when installing it the first time.
Bob

[pgermond]

195 t/stat implant successful........... the patient is alive.....