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peter
December 30th, 2006, 04:47 AM
Are there things that work themselves loose? What do you typically "tighten up" on a periodic basis? thanks peter

Steve C.
December 30th, 2006, 07:20 AM
I would periodically check the loose nut between the steering wheel and the driver's seat:shift:

Sorry for not sending a serious reply.......couldn't help it.

With a new build, you should tighten the exhaust manifold, oil pan and valve cover bolts.

Steering linkages and suspension bolts as well.

pgermond
December 30th, 2006, 06:52 PM
In a word.... EVERYTHING!

The engine and drive train components are obvious, however, doors may fall off if the shoulder bolts loosen up, you might have a wind wing or sun visor disappear one afternoon, that rattling you hear could be your trunk lid due to the hanger for the hinges not being tight. At least that's what I've heard from others ;)

Aggressor
December 30th, 2006, 08:53 PM
Peter
I've owned British sports cars since 1969 and have developed the habit of occasionally checking every reachable fastening for tightness and security. I know the Weavers found several steering joints that required setscrew tightening while spot-checking 2002 Homecoming participant cars.

- Geary

bstandley1
December 30th, 2006, 09:06 PM
I routinely have to tighten up the door latches ..... and the set screws on my steering linkage have loosened up as well.

Bob

weaver
December 31st, 2006, 08:55 AM
I'm amazed at how many cars I check have a loose steering wheel, if you feel looseness in the wheel just tighten the nut.

Alan

eliminator
January 2nd, 2007, 05:31 AM
Yes that is amazing, I got in to Unique's 289 car in Pigeon Forge 2 years ago and the steering wheel nearly fell off in my hand....couldnt help it Alan!!!!

rldunn7
February 16th, 2007, 05:55 AM
Good rule of thumb...for each spring when you change the spark plugs, change the oil, change the brake fluid(yes replace the brake fluid on an annual basis or after serious track driving/ per Valvoline Engineer) and you take the wheels off and repack the front bearings, and put a grease gun on all the fittings. Then you wipe off all that stuff you accumulated for the previous year from underneath the car....

Rule # 1...If you can put a wrench(Allen, torx, metric, standard) you tighten it.
Rule # 2....Torque the lug luts when you put the wheels back on.

I cannot tell you how many nuts and bolts I have picked up walking the track before and after an event.....richard

Tony Radford
February 16th, 2007, 10:28 AM
Make SURE you check the drive shaft fasteners periodically. That one is pretty ugly when it creeps up on you.

spd4me
February 18th, 2007, 04:59 PM
Drive shaft to rear end. I checked mine after 5000 miles and two of the nuts were finger loose. Exhaust manifold is probably what comes loose the most.
Bob

ralphscott
February 19th, 2007, 01:00 PM
I think a regular routine to go over the car is very important. I also use green Loctite for a little insurance.

Ralph

peter
March 24th, 2007, 03:38 PM
The bolts on my driveshaft were loose too. Is there any disadvantage using loctight on these critical items?

pgermond
March 24th, 2007, 05:30 PM
Not from my perspective.

eliminator
March 26th, 2007, 05:37 AM
Yes, unless you want a permanent bond, DONT use the Red!!

davids2toys
August 13th, 2007, 05:57 PM
Good rule of thumb...for each spring when you change the spark plugs, change the oil, change the brake fluid(yes replace the brake fluid on an annual basis or after serious track driving/ per Valvoline Engineer) and you take the wheels off and repack the front bearings, and put a grease gun on all the fittings. Then you wipe off all that stuff you accumulated for the previous year from underneath the car....

Rule # 1...If you can put a wrench(Allen, torx, metric, standard) you tighten it.
Rule # 2....Torque the lug luts when you put the wheels back on.

I cannot tell you how many nuts and bolts I have picked up walking the track before and after an event.....richard

What is the proper torque for the lug nuts?

pgermond
August 13th, 2007, 06:05 PM
Use an anti-seize and snug them up just like you would any other vehicle.

davids2toys
August 13th, 2007, 07:12 PM
Use an anti-seize and snug them up just like you would any other vehicle.

Hmmm...I have been torqing all my wheels for the last ten years, I also did NOT use anti seize, I have never done that either...ooops. Do these cars have a problem seizing up?

pgermond
August 13th, 2007, 07:22 PM
just a precaution

davids2toys
August 13th, 2007, 08:13 PM
Thanks, Next time for sure, still interested in the proper toreque though!

eliminator
August 14th, 2007, 05:40 AM
90-100 Ft Lbs

davids2toys
August 14th, 2007, 08:44 AM
90-100 Ft Lbs
Thanks Rick,
Would you happen to know if the studs are pressed in or screwed in with LH threads, I have 1 that wont torque, it appears to be spinning.
The stud has an allen head on it.
I was thinking of backing it off with a vice grip, putting red loctite on the threads, then tighten it back down, let it sit for a day, then put the wheel back on and try torquing again.

bittentoo
August 14th, 2007, 01:22 PM
Anti-seize is a must on the lug studs. I had one seize on the front. Liked to have never gotten it off. The left hand lug threads stripped in the hub and with the brake assembly on the car it was almost impossable to get a wrench on it. Had to cut a wrench in half, work like the devel to get it on the nut, have someone else push the brake pedal, and had to stand on a breaker bar with a cheater pipe which was the pole off of the floor jack.

Always use anti-seize!!!!!!!!!!

Naumoff
August 14th, 2007, 08:32 PM
What are lug nuts?;)

davids2toys
August 14th, 2007, 09:39 PM
Anti-seize is a must on the lug studs. I had one seize on the front. Liked to have never gotten it off. The left hand lug threads stripped in the hub and with the brake assembly on the car it was almost impossable to get a wrench on it. Had to cut a wrench in half, work like the devel to get it on the nut, have someone else push the brake pedal, and had to stand on a breaker bar with a cheater pipe which was the pole off of the floor jack.

Always use anti-seize!!!!!!!!!!

That sucks about the anti seize, another project when I have time!
how about the torque on the lug nut, somebody just posted in another thread that the torque 65-70 ft lb, and he got this info from compomotive:confused:

davids2toys
August 14th, 2007, 09:44 PM
Anti-seize is a must on the lug studs. I had one seize on the front. Liked to have never gotten it off. The left hand lug threads stripped in the hub and with the brake assembly on the car it was almost impossable to get a wrench on it. Had to cut a wrench in half, work like the devel to get it on the nut, have someone else push the brake pedal, and had to stand on a breaker bar with a cheater pipe which was the pole off of the floor jack.

Always use anti-seize!!!!!!!!!!
I have an Allen head on the stud

rdorman
August 15th, 2007, 08:16 AM
I do an annual go around and a quick check any time high speed will be involved. When I find something that does come loose, I look at why and make a change so that is does not come loose again. Marking the fastener and the surrounding area where possible allows a quick visual check to see if the fastener has come loose.

davids2toys
August 15th, 2007, 01:16 PM
I do an annual go around and a quick check any time high speed will be involved. When I find something that does come loose, I look at why and make a change so that is does not come loose again. Marking the fastener and the surrounding area where possible allows a quick visual check to see if the fastener has come loose.

excellent advice...thanks