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Ric S.
January 13th, 2007, 06:24 AM
Hey Gang,

I went through a search for SPAL Puller fans but am a little unclear on the install part. Do I need to pull the radiator to install one? Do I need to purchase an install kit from the company referenced in the threads or make one??

Thank you, Ric

Tony Radford
January 13th, 2007, 07:05 AM
I installed a 16" Spal puller in my Unique without pulling the radiator. It was tight, but it went in all right. I suggest putting in a thermostat so it will run for a little while after shut down. I also ran it through one of the dash toggle switches for a complete circuit shut off though I've never used it.

pgermond
January 13th, 2007, 09:20 AM
Ric,

A SPAL fan is the only way to go! There are a lot of posts regarding the SPAL fan and mounting... just do a search on "SPAL". Here's one to get you started - http://www.uniquecobra.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5506&highlight=SPAL

I used the mounting pins covered with heat shrink, added a larger fuse, and wired a dash toggle switch.

Good luck!

spd4me
January 13th, 2007, 07:53 PM
Ric - I did spal search last week and just ordered a Spal Slim Line 16" (30100400) from jaycorptech.com with the harness and relay kit $110. Also ordered from Alumrad.com the 16" Spal alum bracket. Figured I's get a head start on this summers global warming and traffic lights. Seems the only diffficult part will be to go to metal shop to get someone to break (bend) the brackets.
Bob

Justin Upchurch
January 14th, 2007, 03:39 PM
Bob,
The setup for the FIA is a little different than what is mentiones for the 427. Let me know if you need pictures.

Justin

spd4me
January 15th, 2007, 06:41 AM
Justin - pictures are a customizers best friend. I can do the bottom like Brents pics showed but am trying to figure the best and easiest way to do top. The top of radiator has a L bracket welded to radiator that bolts through the fiberglass beam. I though about leaving piece of bracket flat to attach behind that bolt and bend each side over the top of radiator to keep it from twisting. When you put new bracket between existing brackets on bottom, did you have to stretch the holes in existing bracket to make up thickness of new alum bracket?
Bob

Steve C.
January 15th, 2007, 01:48 PM
I have the puller fan setup without the pushers. Still having some temperature problems when in heavy traffic.

I am going to have a shroud fabricated that will position a fan with deeper blades beyond the stabilizer bar. Hoprefully this will do the trick.

Steve

davebetts
January 16th, 2007, 09:37 AM
I, also, have added a Spal puller fan to my car. Used the Spal connections(4), did not remove the radiator. Top two brackets screwed in. Bottom two - drilled and tapped the bottom radiator mounts, nutted to installed studs. Very Solid Mount. Be sure fan assembly is not touching the radiator anywhere, as vibrations will eventually cause water leaks. Bumped the fuse size up one (wire in harmness supports next size) and wired into the existing pusher fans hot lead. All three run fine - never blew a fuse, runs all the time when racing, still no issues. This installation has prevented former problems of over heating. Never use to overheat while running, just at stop lights and city cruising. Problem Solved! Good Luck!

YerDugliness
January 16th, 2007, 12:47 PM
OK, so I know it's a wierd idea, but I'm wondering if anyone has ever tried using small exhaust fans at the fender vents to remove some of the hot air from the engine compartment. Would that help the overheating problems? I can't imagine why these cars have such a heating problem with the size of the fishmouth--there ought to be plenty of flow capacity to support even the most heavily built engines. Maybe the engine compartment is just too stuffed with equipment to allow room for the hot air to flow out???

Doug

pgermond
January 16th, 2007, 02:18 PM
Not so weird, as I have seen one Cobra with exhaust fans mount in the vents. I have no idea whether it works or not to reduce the heat enough to affect the motor temp.

spd4me
January 17th, 2007, 06:21 AM
davebetts - my wire harness has a spare labeled #45 red wire in harness for an additional fan (or accessory). It's fuse no. 2 (20 amp) in the fuse box. Should be able to run red wire from fan to a new switch and switch to fuse box. Run fan black to ground and work.
Justin - if you have photos as previously mentioned, I would like to see.
Bob

Justin Upchurch
January 17th, 2007, 06:33 PM
Bob,

I am working late this week, but will get them posted this weekend.
The short version of the install is that you only need one of the brackets because of the size of the FIA radiator. The existing bracket can be modified to hold the bottom of the fan.
So far I don't have any cooling problems, I am not running the pushers, just the SPAL.

Justin

Naumoff
January 18th, 2007, 03:47 AM
I have the puller fan setup without the pushers. Still having some temperature problems when in heavy traffic.

I am going to have a shroud fabricated that will position a fan with deeper blades beyond the stabilizer bar. Hoprefully this will do the trick.

Steve

Some one here on the site did that but i don't remember them reporting back on the results.
It has to help. on our muscle cars we were always looking for factory fan shrouds for them. I am going to fab one this winter too.

davebetts
January 18th, 2007, 06:27 AM
Bob,
What you said sounds correct, yes 20 amp was the size fuse. I remember pulling the 15 amp out and upgrading. Sorry I didn't take any pictures to share.
Another item I have implemeted is Water Wetter. Get it a our local auto store, add to your water/antifreeze (follow directions). This lowered my guage by 10 degrees. Don't know how, it's a chemistry thing and works.

spd4me
January 19th, 2007, 06:18 AM
It's like soap. Soap breaks the surface adhesion and allows the water to clean. The wetter does the same with the metals surface allowing the coollant to come into contact with the metal creating a better transfer of heat. On the wiring, my FIA has the wiring harness make by ProDesign in Gadsden. They wired in an extra fuse (20 amp) position #2 in fuse box. One side goes from fuse box to amp gauge and the other is stubbed out in bundle that goes to the fan switch in dash. All I have to do is install matching switch and run wire from switch out to fan. Plan to use #12 copper.
Bob

ralphscott
January 19th, 2007, 12:05 PM
Leroy and Irene form Chattanoga had vent fans and Leroy said that they helped. I use a 2700 CFM puller and have no problems with my FE in traffic. I left the two pushers on for looks.

Ralph

spd4me
January 21st, 2007, 07:34 PM
Has anybody other than Justin install a 16" Spal puller fan on a 289 FIA?
Bob

bstandley1
January 21st, 2007, 08:25 PM
Bob,

I installed a 16" Spal puller fan on my 289 FIA over a year ago. I bought it from the Fan Man for about $60. I didn't pull the radiator to install it ... just fabricated brackets out of 3/4" wide galvenized. The 1300 CFM provides sufficient cooling to let me idle in traffic with a marginal radiator.

Bob