Questions regarding 351W remote oil filer adapter on block

[richardu]

I would appreciate some help from you small block guys. After about a year of on and off work on my 427 Deluxe Pallet Kit I'm finally ready to turn over my 351W for the first time. It's a Southern Automotive motor so I know it was run in their shop before being sent over to Maurice. All my fluids are in. I've read horror stories about oil starvation when oil lines are switched around incorrectly. I've attached a photo of my block adapter and my oil lines going in and out of it. The left side of the picture is the front of the car. The in and out ports are not marked on the adapter. Have I done it right? I'm hoping for a trouble free first start.

Additionally, SA put in break-in oil. I've reasoned that I should probably replace it with fresh break-in oil since the car has sat for a year through a cold Illinois winter. What kind of break-in oil should I use? Thanks.

DU

[richardu]

DUH... I forgot to mention that I've plumbed the adapter so that the line coming out of the port closest to the front of the car (blue tape) is the out line to the remote oil filter. Any help you can provide on this would be greatly appreciated.

DU

[jalley]

I have the same set up as you and had the same concerns. If it is hooked up in reverse it won't have oil pressure at all. I pre-lubed the motor prior to first start up by removing the distributor and spinning the oil pump with a drill. I disconnected one of the AN fittings at the oil cooler to confirm oil was flowing in the correct direction, then I hooked everything up and spun it again to confirm oil pressure was registering at the gauge.

[jalley]

For break in I used non-synthethic 10W40 and a can of MOA.

[JeepSnake]

I like the idea of breaking the fittings loose and checking for flow with the drill motor on the oil pump. That's about as positive a check as you can get.

For a break-in aid, I've never seen anything but good reports on General Motors Engine Oil Supplement - this is from builders of Ford & GM engines. You can pick it up at the parts counter of any GM dealership in 1 pint bottles, labelled as "EOS." (If you've got a Tremec trans, pick up a few bottles of GM Synchromesh trans fluid while you're there.)

When I change the oil in my 351 next month, I will be adding the EOS as additional protection for the flat-tappet cam. Other than that, we run Exxon Superflo 10W-30.

[nolastyankee]

I have read plenty of engine building books and plan to fire our car fairly soon. Most reads I have seen recommend a natural straight 40 oil and GM EOS. That's what I'm planning to use.

[TurnpikeBoy]

Most reads I have seen recommend a natural straight 40 oil and GM EOS. That's what I'm planning to use.

? - is the engine newly done?; meaning, are clearances back to as-new condition? If so, you truly don't need a 40 wt. oil any more than your new, factory-assembled car does. The issue of the lack of extreme-pressure lubes in regular oil is well-founded (for flat-tappet cams), but as others have said add the EOS or go to the Shell oils with higher ZDDP contents.

[richardu]

Thanks for the input on the break-in oil. I've got one more question regarding spinning the oil pump with a drill. I'm somewhat embarassed to ask, but do I spin it forward (to the right) or reverse (to the left) with the drill?

[TurnpikeBoy]

Engine rotation, as viewed from the front of the engine looking toward the rear, is clockwise. The distributor (and oil pump) are driven directly by the cam - meaning they spin counter-clockwise.

If you turned it backwards, you'd know real quick since the pump won't build up any resistance (by pumping oil) nor will it build oil pressure.

[Brent]

Remember the initial start up, even if Southern ran it for a couple of minutes, is a machining process. The diff between 30&40 weight oil is neglegable at this point in my opinion. Run a straight wt oil (sae) do NOT break in on synthetic. The other additives are a great idea and the research will support that. More important is the first 5-10 minutes of the run. Do not allow the motor to idle. Everyone wants to hear their camshaft as soon as they start it or they want to rev it. NO. Do not hold at a constant rpm for long periods. Vary the rpm from 2000 to 3000 to seat the camshaft and move oil everywhere. A constant low rpm will not evenly oil all areas.
The motor will build heat fast on the first few start ups due to tight tolerences. Run it to 160-180 deg on the first start then let it cool down below 140 and check for leaks. Start it again and run it to 180 then shut it off. Drain the oil and cut the filter apart. Look for anything unusual. If you don't know what that is ask someone that does if they will come over. Nobody will ever pass up a new motor start up. (-:
If all is well then check every nut and bolt on the entire motor, replace the filter, and go with the oil of your choice. Not synthetic yet. Go 1K miles or so then switch if you want. OK I will shut up now.

You will know when the pump builds prime. Hold the drill tight or have an ace bandage handy.

[spd4me]

On my 396W with an oil adapter that looks like yours, the oil comes from cooler into the adapter on the side closest to rear and goes out to filter on front of engine side.
Bob