engine rebuild

[scott h]

while on recent drive i wound up bending a pushrod, even breaking the tip off. Not sure of reason or what other damage may have occured i am in the process of tearing down the motor. i am going to have a local engine builder go thru the motor for me would like some advice on some reassembly thoughts.
1. allen bolts for the headers. 2. head studs vs. bolts. 3. what type of oil pump, i know most people talk about pressure, but basic hydraulics is high pressure low volumn; high volume low presure. wouldn't high volume be our goal? i did have a strange problem especially when cold where the oil pressure would drop to about 30 psi as rpm's increased.
motor is a 351W

[pbrown]

Allan bolts for headers are great. It's easier to get a wrench in there to snug them up now and then.

Use ARP head studs (254-4703) for sure. No bolts.

I'm a fan of high volume pumps but a stock pump will also work. Be mindfull of the distributor gear if using high volume or pressure pumps. You cannot use bronze. Use a steel or iron gear (whichever matches your cam). Also consider an ARM oil pump shaft (154-7901).

Other thoughts:

Now is a good time to switch to a roller cam if you don't already have one.

Don't buy cheap push rods.

[pgermond]

Allan bolts for headers are great. It's easier to get a wrench in there to snug them up now and then.

Not if it's a big block! I used them and the driver side rear is next to impossible to reach. I had to make a special tool and it is still a royal pain.

[scott h]

roller cam is part of the plan. what is better -grade 8 or stainless for header bolts

[nolastyankee]

Scott,
Stainless and grade 8 are very different so 'better' is a very relative question. Header bolts are prone to rust due to the heat cycling so stainless is at advantage there. A good stainless or grade 8 at the proper torque spec will be so far under the capability of the bolt that fastening strength is a non issue. If you get good stainless (like ARP) you will not run into any issues in terms of poor quality and bolt stretch.

Note, however, hardware store stainless is not good quality and you will have issues with stretching, breaking, or worse.

Moral of the story, buy good fasteners (again ARP for me) for your engine and suspension bits. You can't be too safe on fasteners. I prefer stainless for headers.

Stage 8 has a nice locking header bolt set if you flanges will allow the head diameter.

[eliminator]

Use ARP Stainless Steel 12 point on your header bolts and you will be happy, DO NOT USE Allen Head Bolts!! Ends up a 3/8" box end or socket will fit the required 12 point header bolt.

[ralphscott]

I used the 12 Point ARP bolts where ever I could on Lil Cobra. No problems no clearance issues as the 12 point leave lots of room to get a socket or box end on.

Ralph

[TurnpikeBoy]

...... DO NOT USE Allen Head Bolts!!.....

Wow. Why not? Guess I should I take mine out? Ball-end allens work fine, no issue getting to them, even when hot. The only flaw so far is not getting them in stainless, which can be remedied at McMaster Carr any time at all.

Furthermore, if these are aluminum heads, he will run a FAR greater risk of stripping out the threads in the heads than ever stretching or breaking the bolts.

[Brent]

This is really a personal choice for the small block guys. If you like allen heads, great!

For the big block guys the headers are really tight in a few areas and the ability to use twice as many attachment points the 12 pt. bolt head offers really helps.

I really like ARP stuff too. Everything is A1 quality and if you buy a kit from them there will be a slip of paper in the box with a phone number on it. If you need any additional fastener or one exchanged due to a "non-fit" issue they will send everything you need for FREE. They are a really great company to deal with.

Best of luck,

[scott h]

i do have alum. heads. The bolts are so close to the header pipe that i can't get a box wrench or socket on some of them, it may be with a smaller 12 pt. bolt head that i won't have that problem.

[pbrown]

ARP sells a complete engine kit that includes every external bolt on the engine. I've done this with two Ford small blocks. They look great and are very strong. If you opt for the 12 point, the heads are small and easy to get a wrench to.

The kit includes bolts for:
intake
headers
tstat housing
oil pan
timing cover
dizzy hold down
carb studs
water pump
fuel pump

It's a good place to start. I would add to that:

oil pump bolts
oil pump shaft
U-cut 12 point head studs
damper bolt
main studs and rod bolts if you are doing machine work.

[sllib]

I went with ARP's stainless bolts, pre-drilled for safety wire. Before I put the body on for the LAST time I'll wire 'em up.
Bill Stradtner