Starting problems

[homer]

I spent the past few months underneath the car replacing header gaskets, rebuilding emergency brake set up etc - put the car back together for a test run today and it wouldn't start - a bummer as it would have been the first run of the season. Tha battery is fully charged, the only thing I touched in terms of electronics was removing the starter which I have done without issue in the past. All connections are solid. When I turn the key I hear a loud single click at the solenoid but the starter will not engage. I dont see anything on the fuseable link that indicates that it is blown (btw I have never seen a failed link, what does it look like?) Could it be the solenoid? Before I make a run to the parts store any helpful comments would be appreciated. Thanks

[Naumoff]

The click is at the solenoid it could be bad.

Do you have a test light or multimeter?

Check to see if you get power to the starter side of the solenoid when the key is turned to start the car.

[JeepSnake]

General repair rules for Fords with the "classic" style starter solenoid:

No start with clicking sound? Replace solenoid.

No start with no sound? Replace solenoid.

Backfire during starting? Replace solenoid.

Low oil pressure? Replace solenoid.

Transmission won't shift? Replace solenoid.

You get the idea :) I haven't lost one on the Cobra (yet), but it is one of the spare parts that I keep on hand in the garage at all times. Jeep used them, and my CJ-5 had an appetite for them. I suppose that they don't like vibration, and the Cobra sees a lot smoother driving surface than the Jeep did.

[Naumoff]

Or you could just replace the starter solenoid.

My brand new solenoid took a crap so I pulled the one off my 64 t-bird parts car and put it on the Cobra. It has been good ever since.[thumb]

[will butterworth]

been through a bucket of those things--keep spare in trunk, and ignition switches. Will-alabama

[homer]

you guys were 100% spot on - changed the solenoid and it fired up -- I discovered a new electrical gremlin - battery is fully charged - I get just shy of 13v on a battery meter with the engine off. With the engine on, I get 12.3V at the battery - in the past I would see the ammeter swing to the opposite side of 0 into negative land once the engine warmed up - this doesnt happen. With the engine off and accessories such as the fans, lights, and hazards on the ammeter is in + territory - I am worried the alternator may be bad and as I drive I am slowly draining the battery - any way to tell if its the voltage regulator or the alternator?