Particular clutch preference?

[Tony Radford]

I'm about ready to throw in the towel and do a clutch change. I'm currently running a Ram clutch and though it does a great job of handling the relatively high amount of torque hitting the back wheels, the amount of throw required to fully disengage is exceeding the capabilitie of the hydraulic control system. I would like to hear from those of you who are particularly pleased with their current set ups. Especially those who have gone through multiple products to get to the one that works best.

[davebetts]

I have had the same set up since 2003. I road race and don't drag race, hole shots - of course. 427 stroker (Southern Auto), Lakewood bell housing, McLeod CLUTCH and throwout bearing, hooking a Tremec 3550. It's always worked well with the external hydralic slave being pushed by a Wildood master. Only failure was the Wilwood and that was my fault (cooked the fuild). I built a heat sheild, replaced master and filled with Wilwood high temp (600 degrees safe now).
Good Luck!

[Tony Radford]

Dave, which Ram clutch do you have? I'm running the one that Bill said I wouldn't like. It's a Power Grip or Power Grip HD.

[spd4me]

Tony I have the same problem with my FIA. Not sure what clutch Southern Auto put in it. I changed my slave to the Wilwood pull type and left the original small master cylinder. My problem is disengaging enough for reverse. I just put in a new larger Wilwood 1" large reservior master and it won't disengage at all. I've bleed it and it will depress about half inch and hits a wall. I can open slave bleeder and petal will go to floor. I'm going to put back on original Lockheed that came with it and see if it works.
When I do get around to changing my clutch, I am going with a Spec stage 2. I've talked to alot of tubro charged Mustang owners and they all sware by it. Their in Bessemer, AL www.specclutch.com

[Aggressor]

I've used McLeod since my build in 2001. Long finger style.

-Geary

[eliminator]

Using a McLeod, 3 finger, with HTOB. No problem, I flush and change the fluid every Spring and I have been pleased with it.
Don't know what Bill put in mine originally but it was red like a Mcleod, it had less springs and could have been a Ram. The problem with it was it slipped and really chattered a lot at inital take-off in 1st gear.

[davebetts]

Tony,
I'm running a McLeod, not a Ram. Don't know the number but I could find out if it is helpful to you.

[Naumoff]

Tony,
Have you thought about changing too a matching slave/master cylinder set up.

I am assuming you are running the Wilwood master and a NAPA/Raybestos slave.

Have you contacted Wilwood for help?

[Tony Radford]

Tony, before the stroker, I was running a King Cobra clutch and it was perfect as far as travel goes. With the stroker came an aluminum flywheel that the King Cobra didn't fit. I should probably investigate the slave change out scenario, but I'm burned out on experimenting with slave/master combinations.

[Naumoff]

Tony,
I know you been having a lot of issues with your clutch disengaging properly.

Did you try a shorter fork?

[Tony Radford]

Tony, if it gets to the point that the bellhousing and trans get pulled, I think the clutch is history. I wish I culd find a spec page that lists various clutch mechanicals (such as travel).

[Naumoff]

McLeod use to have a section in their website.
The long style three finger pressure plates needs a 1/2" of travel at the throw out bearing and you can check the gap with a feeler gauge at the clutch disc. .050 to .080 to make sure it is disengage fully, if memory serves me right.
I cut a window in my lakewood bell housing at the bottom, (6 o'clock), to be able to access the disc.

[Naumoff]

Tony,
Go to the Mcloud website in the FAQ section.
Here is the link.

http://www.mcleodind.com/faq.html#top_questions

go through everything and you will see alot of your questions will be answered.

Long style is .050-.060 gap for a fully disengaged clutch.
Different for other style.
They also give you the diff. amount of movement at the throw out bearing for diff. style pressure plates.