Parking brake help, I think I lost my pads

[davids2toys]

After a bunch of searching and not finding what I needed, I decided to start a new thread.
I have the handle on the side of the tunnel, it always held the car in the parked position but would not stop the car or lock up the wheels if you were cruising...probably normal I expect. Is this an emergency braking or a parking brake? The handle always pulled all the way up, and I have tried to adjust it so it would be done after about 7 clicks or so, I never succeeded. Well this weekend after a cruise, I launched it hard, when I shut off the car and applied the brake, I noticed it wasn't holding, and the pull on the handle never got even a little harder. I adjusted it all the way out and in, no change. Upon inspecting it and trying to figure this Jag e brake system out I have noticed the there only seems to be a pad on 1 outside of the rotor, on driver and passenger side, and it is the one that gets squeezed by the lever. I think I am looking at the pads, they are about 1/2 inch wide by about 2 inches long, It looks like there is a place for a pad but it is not there. Is this possible, can they come flying off?
Anyway, any insight would be appreciated, I have a big G stamped in the caliper, I am assumming it is a Girling unit perhaps.
Thanks...Dave

[nolastyankee]

There should be a pad on each side of the e-brake caliper. If you are having to 'adjust' the e-brake calipers then you have an installation or equipment issue. Jag e-brakes are self indexing and, when set up properly, should not require any external adjustment to compensate for pad wear. Pads are a bugger to change...Will be fun!

[Naumoff]

They also must have the pull off springs installed on the levers so they can self adjust. And yes they are a parking brake.

http://www.uniquecobra.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7130&highlight=e-brake+pull+springs

[davids2toys]

So I should have a total of 4 pads, 2 on each rotor then, correct? I only have one, so I guess I'm scewed.I will be putting the car out of commission very soon, so I guess I will start on the rear brakes. I wanted to look at the driver side (regular brakes)caliper anyway because one of the pads is very thin and the other is fine
So you say this job is a bear huh, great...where can I get info on this job? I am sure this is a whole lot easier out of the car!
Thanks Brian

Tony,
I have the springs you are refering to. I was only trying to adjust the cable so it would be about seven clicks to max tight.
thanks for the link, I had read that already.
Thanks

[nolastyankee]

David,
The rear end is Jaguar from the XJ6, and it is similar to the XKE. You can search on-line, there are lots of sites detailing rear end service. You can also find Jag maintanance manuals at some bookstores. I also put a link on this site a while back that has an awesome Jag reference site by a guy named Kirby Palm. You can easily find it with a Google search.

[davids2toys]

Well i did a GOOGLE search on kirby palm..WOW, tons of hits. I did register on Jag lovers forum. Very busy site!
Thanks
I did a search on this Unique forum site and found nothing, do you happen to know where that link would be?

[nolastyankee]

Link to Kirby Palm manual:

http://www.nettally.com/palmk/jaguar.html

Highly recommended for all Unique owners! You'll need to download a MS Word doc.

[davids2toys]

Very good, thanks....I just evaperated 3 hours.
I think I will go get a haynes manual ASAP, unless you know of something better.
Also tried to order the CD Rom from coltrane along with the printed version of the book, well, it looks like they are out of buisiness. Is their any other way to get these?
I have the complete CD rom set for older corvettes from NCRS, used it all the time when I had my 60 vette.

[davids2toys]

David,
The rear end is Jaguar from the XJ6, and it is similar to the XKE. You can search on-line, there are lots of sites detailing rear end service. You can also find Jag maintanance manuals at some bookstores. I also put a link on this site a while back that has an awesome Jag reference site by a guy named Kirby Palm. You can easily find it with a Google search.
I am online looking for a haynes manual, lots to pick from. Just noticed you say XJ6, I thought somebody said XJS, so I was looking for XJS.
I am on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/s/qid=1227368758/ref=sr_pg_1?ie=UTF8&rs=1000&keywords=xjs&rh=i%3Astripbooks%2Ck%3Axjs&page=1
I was looking at number 7, 10, and 16, but they are all for XJ 12 and XJS.
Just went back in and see one for XJ6 88-94, another for 68-79, and 68-74, which would I need?
I absolutely no nothing about Jags except as a kid, I always thought the E-type was the coolest car on the planet!
Just remembered where I saw XJS, it was in the Kirby Palm book you linked me to.

[richardu]

David and Brian:
This past spring I ran into the same problem with the ebrake. It would not hold no matter what I did. I played around with mirrors and lights under the car, and I also noticed that it looked like I have a pad on just one side of each rotor. I appreciate you guys digging into this issue. I temporarily gave up, and decided to just drive the car this summer without the ebrake, but I'd like to get it working at some point. I'm also going to look into the resources you've been discussing. With the body on the chassis, it looks like it's going to be tough to work on the ebrake. Any wisdom would be appreciated, and I'll let you know if I learn anything new.

Additionally, I just pulled the pads on the front and rear. I've got groaning rear brakes, and I'd like to improve the overall braking performance of the car. I've got the part number for alternative front pads, but still looking for the pn for the rear pads. I think I may just go to a Jag dealer near my house for help. Any thoughts?


Dick

[nolastyankee]

Dick,
I replaced the rear pads on our car with EBC greenstuff. EBC makes 3 different compounds for street to full race that fit Jag calipers. They have a break in compound on the first few millimeters that is supposed to perform a light rotor surfacing. They work much better than our stock pads and do not require as much heat. They are noisier than stock pads when cold in terms of being groaning and grabby, but that's a price I am willing to pay for the performance.

The biggest bugger of installing new pads is getting the caliper retracted. There is simply no room under the car and I had to use a C-Clamp and 1/4 steel plate to bridge into the caliper to push it back. That part took several hours. Pulling the pins and swapping the pads took 10 minutes.

Feel free to give me a call sometime and I'll be happy to walk you through what we did. 479-621-8470

[davids2toys]

Hey Dick
Nice to know I'm not the only one with this problem, ha ha, only kidding! Seriously though, it is a real mystery how it was working one minute and the next minute nothing. Where did those two little pads go? I wonder. From what you are saying, that you already have the brake pads off, I figured if you got that far, the e brake pads would be easy to access, but from what Brian is saying, I guess maybe not.

On my car, I haven't taken anything apart yet. The only thing that I've determined is that I am missing two pads and that I have a slight leak immediately adjacent to the rotors (more on the driver's side though). There is nothing presently on the rotor, but left unchecked, I am sure it -will end up there. I read somewhere about just rtv-ing the seal, maybe that and neatly tie wrapping a rag dam setup just in case to keep it off the rotor. Seems like just too small of a leak to start ripping things apart.

I need to get into the rear calipers anyway because one of the pads is wearing quicker than the other and I wanted to investigate it.

I wonder if the emergency brake caliper and pads can be accessed, removed and replaced, without breaking down the rear brake main caliper?

Richard, how hard was it to pull the rear calipers?

Dave

[nolastyankee]

David,
Pulling the rear calipers on these cars is a chore with the body OFF. If you know exactly where the bolts are and can navigate a Jag rear end by feel, they you may have a shot. As much work as we have done on our car I may be able to do it, but it would be extremely difficult. (The mounting bolts engage threading outboard and the heads are up next to the differential case. Check that Kirby Palm manual I told you about!)

Unless there was an absolute need to do it there is no way I would attempt to pull a rear caliper with the rear end in place and the body on. I would probably cut a hole in the rear bulkhead before dropping the rear end. Should you decide pull the rear end you will need to watch changing your alignment (by rotating the rear end within the slop in the mounting holes) if you drop the differential. Then again, depending on whether the car was built by Alan and Maurice you may have an opportunity to string the chassis and optimize your alignment.

[scott h]

i had to pull the rear caliper to replace a leaking stub shaft seal, it is not technically difficult, just slow and tedious. Pull the wheel and stick your head in there. Not enough room around the bolt head for a ratcheting box wrench. you have to use an open end wrench and you can only turn the bolt a fraction of a turn, that's what takes so long, fine thread bolts and no room to turn the wrench. Is your leak brake fluid? It may be the seal.

[davids2toys]

David,
Pulling the rear calipers on these cars is a chore with the body OFF. If you know exactly where the bolts are and can navigate a Jag rear end by feel, they you may have a shot. As much work as we have done on our car I may be able to do it, but it would be extremely difficult. (The mounting bolts engage threading outboard and the heads are up next to the differential case. Check that Kirby Palm manual I told you about!)

Unless there was an absolute need to do it there is no way I would attempt to pull a rear caliper with the rear end in place and the body on. I would probably cut a hole in the rear bulkhead before dropping the rear end. Should you decide pull the rear end you will need to watch changing your alignment (by rotating the rear end within the slop in the mounting holes) if you drop the differential. Then again, depending on whether the car was built by Alan and Maurice you may have an opportunity to string the chassis and optimize your alignment.
WOW, sounds like a big PITA.
So, if I am reading in between the lines corectly, changing just the pads should be an easy job? What about the e brake pads and caliper?
I did a lot of reading in the link that you posted, just wish there was 36 hours in the day and not 24...lol! I will have to get back in there again.
I still want to get a Haynes manual, the Kirby Palm book, seems to be more of a supplement to a manual, than a manual itself. Did you ever read the post 6 back from this one about which Jag manual to purchase?
Thanks...Dave

Scott, this is definately gear oil, it is coming from about 2 inches outboard and up away from the rotor.

[nolastyankee]

David,
The Kirby Palm book is a free download from the link I told you about. I don't think there is a need for a Haynes manual, everything we ever needed on the Jag rear could be found via net searches.

Changing brake pads is easy unless you have to compress the piston into the caliper, then there is a bit more involved but still very servicable. Changing e-brake pade will be a royal pain since they are on the top side of the calipers. It should be manageable, but I have never attempted it with the body on. Your ability to navigate by feel will be important.

The brake lines run very close to the e-brake calipers and caused significant interference when performing e-brake maintenance on our car. We had to remove our brake lines to do any service at all. It was easy since we did that part with the body off.

[davids2toys]

David,
The Kirby Palm book is a free download from the link I told you about. I don't think there is a need for a Haynes manual, everything we ever needed on the Jag rear could be found via net searches.

Changing brake pads is easy unless you have to compress the piston into the caliper, then there is a bit more involved but still very servicable. Changing e-brake pade will be a royal pain since they are on the top side of the calipers. It should be manageable, but I have never attempted it with the body on. Your ability to navigate by feel will be important.

The brake lines run very close to the e-brake calipers and caused significant interference when performing e-brake maintenance on our car. We had to remove our brake lines to do any service at all. It was easy since we did that part with the body off.
Brian, I have already downloaded the book, it is a great resource, thanks, I have spent much time browsing thru it so far, on many occasions it mentioned other manuals , also you mention other manuals, I am confused on which one XJS? XJ6? XJ12? XKE? YEARS THAT APPLY TO OUR REAR?
I am really not a JAG expert at all, so it is all french to me!
Kirby Palm says XJS, you mentioned XJ6 in a few threads, I just got reading on the CWI site, XKE.......I'm :confused:
Actually, I am looking forward to getting into this thing and working on it, I just like my ducks lined up and my research complete before I dive in and either screw it up or do it the hard way!
Thanks...Dave

[nolastyankee]

Dave,
Jaguar used a very simple Dana 44 based center section IRS in cars from the early XKE to the XJS. I can't tell you all the subtleties but there are differences to the diff casing and brake calipers with virtually identical suspension bits. Not sure of the cutoff but the ubiquitous "Jag IRS" that has found a way into almost every hot rod variant made continued to the mid 80's. I find myself looking at late 70's early 80's XJ6 parts because I know they fit most of our cars, and mine in particular. In terms of basic service there is not much variation between the rear ends. When Unique builds a chassis they vary the mounting angles to adapt the rear end they are installing to the chassis being built. We had to modify our diff mount when we changed housings.

This is one of the many reasons that I firmly maintain that there is no correct answer for any of these cars since there are not two the same - even if the basic choices on powertrain are identical!

[scott h]

how old is your car? in my case i i had the leak from the time i got the car. butch did what was necessary to replace/fix the seal, i had to send him the stub shaft. now that winter is coming you'll have alot of time to fix the problem before spring. I agree that the repairs would be easier with the center section out of the car but I am not sure of the trade off between removing the diff and the time it takes to remove the caliper, also I installed my parking brake after the body was on, once again not as easy but it is just time and patience.

[davids2toys]

Well Brian,
I guess I am just not used to working in the dark all the time. I love diagrams, manuals and clear work instructions, but I guess it would be to easy then and anybody would be able to do it...lol?
I see what your saying, I just did not realize how much lack of standardization there is in these cars. I guess I will just do the best I can, ask a lot of questions, and hopefully learn a bunch along the way without screwing up to much!!!
Thanks
Dave,
Jaguar used a very simple Dana 44 based center section IRS in cars from the early XKE to the XJS. I can't tell you all the subtleties but there are differences to the diff casing and brake calipers with virtually identical suspension bits. Not sure of the cutoff but the ubiquitous "Jag IRS" that has found a way into almost every hot rod variant made continued to the mid 80's. I find myself looking at late 70's early 80's XJ6 parts because I know they fit most of our cars, and mine in particular. In terms of basic service there is not much variation between the rear ends. When Unique builds a chassis they vary the mounting angles to adapt the rear end they are installing to the chassis being built. We had to modify our diff mount when we changed housings.

This is one of the many reasons that I firmly maintain that there is no correct answer for any of these cars since there are not two the same - even if the basic choices on powertrain are identical!

[davids2toys]

My car is a 93. Actually the caliper does not look t5otally impossible to get out, the ebrake , I cant tell how to get it out, I just read in one publication that is descibing how to service them, they are talking about tie plates, whatever they are!
how old is your car? in my case i i had the leak from the time i got the car. butch did what was necessary to replace/fix the seal, i had to send him the stub shaft. now that winter is coming you'll have alot of time to fix the problem before spring. I agree that the repairs would be easier with the center section out of the car but I am not sure of the trade off between removing the diff and the time it takes to remove the caliper, also I installed my parking brake after the body was on, once again not as easy but it is just time and patience.

[nolastyankee]

If memory serves, e-brake calipers attach to the standard brake calipers with 2 bolts per side at the top of the standard brake caliper. The tie plates are wishbone shaped and function as psuedo-return springs. They bolt down from the top. The entire e-brake assembly sits at an angle so 'side' and 'top' are somewhat relative.

The pad should be accessible from the top underneath the tie plate.

[richardu]

Brian: Thanks for the info on the rear brake pads. I pulled my current pads out of the rear calipers with no problem. The calipers weren't retracted. EBC Greenstuff rear pads sound like the answer I'm looking for. Where can I find the part number for these pads, or do I have to just ask around for EBC pads that fit an XJ6 rear caliper set up? Have a great thanksgiving!

Dick

[davids2toys]

I have not been able to get near this yet,just to busy around here, between the neck injection yesterday and the approaching holiday.
I do remember seeing two bolts on top of the caliper, also a swivel pin sort of setup for the levers to rotate on.
The outboard pads have about an 1/8 inch thickness, the inboard ones have about 1/4 inch, I don't know if this normal or not...but I am thinking of changing all the pads, it looks pretty obvious to me that the pistons will need to be retracted, is their any any special advice you could offer considering I will be doing this without removing the caliper.
Take care and have a great Thanksgiving...Dave

If memory serves, e-brake calipers attach to the standard brake calipers with 2 bolts per side at the top of the standard brake caliper. The tie plates are wishbone shaped and function as psuedo-return springs. They bolt down from the top. The entire e-brake assembly sits at an angle so 'side' and 'top' are somewhat relative.

The pad should be accessible from the top underneath the tie plate.

[nolastyankee]

Richard,
The Greenstuff pads are available through Summit racing, I'll get you the number and respond this weekend. I have the box on my workbench. My old pads came out pretty easily too, the challenge was getting the new pads in if they are thicker. I used two 2" x 1/4" steel plates about 8" in length and created a sort of "tweezer" to compress the pistons back into the caliper.

Imagine, if you will, the two steel plates with a 2"x4" wood block between them at one end, the caliper body and piston between the plates at the other end, and a large C clamp in the middle. I cranked down on the C clamp and compressed the piston. It's not a perfect tool but seemed to work for me. The hardest part is getting all the pieces clamped together and on caliper in the right place while working under a car on jack stands!

[davids2toys]

Richard,
The Greenstuff pads are available through Summit racing, I'll get you the number and respond this weekend. I have the box on my workbench. My old pads came out pretty easily too, the challenge was getting the new pads in if they are thicker. I used two 2" x 1/4" steel plates about 8" in length and created a sort of "tweezer" to compress the pistons back into the caliper.

Imagine, if you will, the two steel plates with a 2"x4" wood block between them at one end, the caliper body and piston between the plates at the other end, and a large C clamp in the middle. I cranked down on the C clamp and compressed the piston. It's not a perfect tool but seemed to work for me. The hardest part is getting all the pieces clamped together and on caliper in the right place while working under a car on jack stands!
This is great idea, I was just looking at this wondering about room for a C clamp.
I was just talking to the people at this site, very helpful, and they have all kinds of exploded views and diagrams. He also said they do mail out rebuilt calipers with the core exchange

www.captainjaguarscathouse.com (http://www.captainjaguarscathouse.com)

He was telling me all they do is put a big pair of channel locks on it and squeeze. I have a feeling it wont be that easy! As I was saying earlier, I have 1/4 inch of material on the inboard pad and 1/8 inch on the outboard, he said I should rebuild the calipers..I was going to just replace the pads and be done with it...is this normal on our cars, or should they be wearing equally?

Also interested in these Greenstuff brake pads, are yours street or race? We are talking rear pads right? I went on Summitt, they appear to be full organic and were around 99.00 for a set, but they dont say if a set is two or four, and I think they may have been for the front. The site I mentioned above sells the complete set of jaguar OEM pads for the rear for 34.00, if yours perform much better, I have no problem paying more!
I know you had said I would have a dana center section but from what I am reading, I think I have a Salisbury unit...it has a drain plug, and the Dana would not. Am I misunderstanding something here?

About another book/manual, this guy said it sounded like a series 3 XJ6 between 1980 and 1987 would be good referance for our rear end and brake setups, at least for mine anyway.
Dave

[richardu]

Brian: Thanks for the information on the Greenstuff rear pads. When you have the chance I'd appreciate the part number. I understand the design of your tweezer device. Sounds like it would work great to compress the pistons. I'm at my father-in-law's place in Grosse Point, Michigan this weekend cooking turkey and hangin out with family. I plan on getting back to the car next week.

David: Your research on the rear calipers is great. I plan to dig into it in detail.

Thanks to both of you for the ideas and help. Have a great Thanksgiving!!

Dick

[davids2toys]

Just purchased this book last night on Amazon. 7.00 plus 3.99 shipping...a bargain!
Jaguar XJ6, 1968-1986 (Haynes Manuals) [Paperback] by Haynes, John. It covers series 1,2 and 3. So that should help me out along with the other sources I am finding.
I also made a bunch of word docs from Jag Lovers tech articles and put it in my BRAKE folder, along with detailed blow up pics of the rear and brakes from the Jag lovers and that Capt Jaguar site.
I would be more than happy to post these if you would like, if it is possible of course! Let me know.
Happy Thankgiving Guys!

[nolastyankee]

Richard,
Greenstuff pads that fit Unique brakes are p/n DP2101. You can download a .pdf from EBC of all their part numbers for Jag that will let you cross reference DP2101 against their Yellowstuff and Redstuff numbers as well. Let me know how it goes!

BTW, the best price and availability I found for pads was at Summit. Many carry EBC, but this Jag part number seems to be out of stock alot. It took me 3 weeks to get mine, that was better than the next best supplier by a month.

[arrowdriver]

A friend of mine who has worked on Jags for years told me that the easiest way to do the rear brakes etc is to drop the rear end out of the car first. I don't know if any of you have tried this?

[richardu]

Brian:
Thanks for the pn/source info for the jag rear brake pads. At this point even a three week wait to order them isn't a problem. With the snow we received last night, I probably won't be on the road any time soon.
Thanks again and Happy Holidays to you and yours.

Dick

[eliminator]

The easiest way is to remove the caliphers. It would take much more time and effort to drop the rear differential. I have done both for different reasons. The two bolts that hold the caliphers to the differential are safety wired, this is a little annoying but can be done. The Craftsman or other tool makers gear wrenches are a must in removing the caliphers, I forgot the size, 9/16 or 5/8, not metric.

[davids2toys]

The easiest way is to remove the caliphers. It would take much more time and effort to drop the rear differential. I have done both for different reasons. The two bolts that hold the caliphers to the differential are safety wired, this is a little annoying but can be done. The Craftsman or other tool makers gear wrenches are a must in removing the caliphers, I forgot the size, 9/16 or 5/8, not metric.

Mine are not even safety wired at all:doh: . In fact the only thing I see safety wire on is the two bolts going thru the control arm on each side of the differential, and the forward bolt on both sides has a shim and that is also safety wired. I wonder if all the bolts around the stub axle are supposed to be safety wired, they have the heads with the hole provision for safety wire!
The wrench size is 5/8.
I want to just take the calipers off, I dont want to get involved in dropping the whole rear at this time. To much learning curve at one time for me:D.
Would you know the minimum spec on the rotors, I want to make sure they are good before I proceed. So far I am dong new parking brake pads, rebuilt calipers and new pads. If the rotors need replacing, can this also be done without dropping the rear?
Thanks

[nolastyankee]

David,
If you can get the calipers free the rotors are easy. They are also captured at the bottom by the rear control arm if I remember correctly so you may need to remove that as well.

[eliminator]

The rotors are easy to remove once the caliphers are removed. Just take the 4 nuts loose at the stub axle that attach to the drive axle and let the hubs pivot down to pull the drive axle flange away from the stub axle. May have to loosen the big nuts on the hub axle shaft so it will move easier. The minimum rotor thickness is stamped on the rotors. Be sure to remember the placement of the shims in relation to the rotor, general 2 on the inside and the outside shims (?) different as they are used to set the rear camber.

[davids2toys]

Thanks Brian and Rick,
The knowledge on this forum is truely amazing!
I am totally new to a jag rear and I have been afraid to touch it, but I will be soon, unfortunately.
Just went out there with a mirror and flash light to check it out. Yes it does say BREMBO 11.4 min thickness. I checked the thickness of the rotor with a micrometer, it measured .504 inches. 11.4mm comes out to be .450 inches, so I guess I'm good. There is no ridge on the edge of the rotor so I am assuming the pad comes all the way out to the edge. I may replace them anyway since I am there, just to start off all new.
I think if I have to remove the rotors, it would just make it coming thru the bottom of the opening in the control arm. The rotor seems to be about 10 1/4 wide, and the opening is about the same.
Upon further inspection, my pistons on the calipers are all rusty on the outer surface and I do not see a seal at all, I thought there was a seal that moved out with the piston to protect it?
Any recommendations on a good company to buy the calipers from? I remember reading a bunch of stuff about chrome pistons, SS pistons, and different type of seals.

[eliminator]

I have never seen a Unique Car that needed the rear rotors replaced by wear. Not that much wear on the rear of a light car. I would clean them and scuff them up and that would be it. I would just take the caliphers off and clean them, strip the old surface, remove the rust, paint them with a good quality paint, rebuild them, and put them back on. Be carefull that you don't get brake fluid on the newly painted caliphers, the brake fluid will act like paint remover.Maurice has SS pistons and rebuild kits or you can purchase them elsewhere. Brake fluid can be flushed with denatured alcohol. The Wishbones are not a factor in removing the rotors.

[davids2toys]

I have never seen a Unique Car that needed the rear rotors replaced by wear. Not that much wear on the rear of a light car. I would clean them and scuff them up and that would be it. I would just take the caliphers off and clean them, strip the old surface, remove the rust, paint them with a good quality paint, rebuild them, and put them back on. Be carefull that you don't get brake fluid on the newly painted caliphers, the brake fluid will act like paint remover.Maurice has SS pistons and rebuild kits or you can purchase them elsewhere. Brake fluid can be flushed with denatured alcohol. The Wishbones are not a factor in removing the rotors.
Advice taken on the rotors. I have also decided on leaving the small leak on each side of the diff alone for now. I have been talking to XKs Jaguar parts, I think I am going to purchased rebuilt and sleeved GIRLING calipers, organic pads, and the related e brake pads and other items from them.
They sell a complete rebuilt stub axle assembly for 270.00 each side, and rotors are are only 20 or 30 bucks each. Probably will get done in the future, not now though. I figure if the leak gets bad enough I will do the stub axle kit, and at that time replace the rotors since they would have to come off anyway and they are cheap enough.
Also for general information, they sell a complete rear vented rotor kit, both sides for about 500.00.
So, when you say scuff them up, are you talking about the rotors turning under power with tires off the ground, or just by hand and turning the rotors by hand? Also, what would you use,I was thinking red scotchbrite.
Happy Holiday's.........Dave

[eliminator]

Just scuff the rotors up by hand, scotchbrite pad will work, emery cloth, ect.

You can send your rotors to Concourse West and have them drilled, go on their web sit to get the price.

IT'S LIKE EVERYTHING ELSE YOU CAN SPEND AS MUCH AS YOU WALLET WILL LET YOU ON ANY MAJOR COMPONET OF A CAR, ENGINE, DRIVE TRAIN, BRAKES, WHEELS, SUSPENSION, YOU NAME IT.

[davids2toys]

OK, thanks.
I hear ya on the $$$$$$ thing!
The guy @ XKS also said to put a 45 deg chamfer on the leading edge of the pads so they wont make any noise.
I am learning things along the way here, because I have seven bolt holes in the stub axle flange and 1 5/8 rather than 1 1/2 center to center bolt spacing on my ebrake retainer fork hold down bolts.... I have somewhere between 1980 and 1987 XJ-6