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robbinsshkr
March 2nd, 2009, 09:00 AM
Everyone is always submitting different ideas to share with one another. I ran across these at ACE Hardware. a pack of 10 for 3 bucks. They are made of plastic, come in 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4'' making for a secure fit surrounding the convoluted tubing[i think thats what its called]. they are easily shaped on a bench grinder to fit curved surfaces and attatch well with an epoxy. perhaps another option along with the aluminum tabs and zip ties?
Just a thought!
Eddie

ralphscott
March 2nd, 2009, 11:19 AM
What I did was to take a some thin guage aluminum cut it into 1.5 inch by .75 inch rectangles bend it in half to a 90 degree angle, drill a hole #30 drill or #22 drill (based in the width of your zip ties) in the center of one of the .75 by .75 squares. Using RTV, put a dab on the backside of the tab without the hole and stick it to the side of the car (thermotech or fiberglass) let it dry over night run your loom and fasten using the zip ties through the drilled holes. Works like a charm and they are still on some 8 years later. If I knew the max K's allowed for pictures I'd post a shot or two. This was for the record a Butch Capps trick of the trade!

P.S. clip the four corners to round them. Also drill the holes before you bend the tabs (block of 2X4 in the vise works) making them is so simple that you can do it on Sunday afternoon watching the NASCAR race. How many to make? I made so many that I have tabs leftover. Can't stand exposed wires. That is one of the things that really turn me off about the originals.

Ralph

robbinsshkr
March 2nd, 2009, 05:38 PM
What kind of RTV did you use? black, red, orange, high-temp, etc? I didn't know if some type of silicone / adhesive, rtv or a two part epoxy would hold the best. after coming through the fire wall, did you drill and go through the fenderwell [outside of the engine bay] as some of the photo's i've seen, or did you stay on the inside of the fenderwell heading towards the head lights. i think there should be enough room staying inside the engine compartment, following the inner fender, kinda under the top of the fender lip and still keep everything out of sight. I'll find out soon enough as I'm head'n to the barn :D:D:D
Thanks,
Eddie

ralphscott
March 3rd, 2009, 04:33 AM
Eddie, I used NAPA Ultra Black Hi-Temp RTV silicone Gasket Maker #598B. I went through the firewall as high and close to the outer edge (outside of the body) as I could, then hung the harness from the underside of the fenderlip, again as close as I could (about 2" from the outerbody) then went through the wheel well and hug the harness as high as I could heading towards the headlights. Can't see the harness unless you really bend over the engine bay and look for it. Hope this helps.

Ralph

sllib
March 3rd, 2009, 06:03 AM
Ralph;
Good idea. I guess you can always buy angle aluminum or angle fiberglass and just cut off as much as you need. I had a bunch of what we in the wiring trade call "stickybacks" and scraped off the sticky part and epoxied them under the fender. WAY too much like work; I like your idea better.
Bill Stradtner

ralphscott
March 3rd, 2009, 07:57 AM
I guess you could buy it and use it. I liked the ability to use scrap to a good end. I hate to throw stuff out, my wife says I'm a pack rat. My dad was the same way, waste not want not. One thing I also liked was that the aluminum that I used was light enough to stay in place while the RTV dried.

Ralph