Sidepipe mount fastener issue

[davids2toys]

I have done many searches on this subject, also talked to someone at Unique( can't remember who) a couple of years ago who told me to just sock them down tight. This to me would make sense if the motor mount was a solid mount, then the engine, frame, and side-pipe would all be vibrating/moving in unyson creating no stress points.
My motor mount is not however, it has rubber in it to provide flex.
What worries me is that that motor is moving separately from the frame, so if you sock down on the fastener you would now be creating a hard point at the side-pipe mounts.
My present situation (the way I bought the car) is 5/16 bolt with a washer under the head, then a spring followed by another washer. The spring is similar to a brake shoe spring. I have lost a few of these bolts already, must have vibrated out, maybe I should have install the bolts with locktight? I also cut some radiator hose into 1x1 squares and put them between the frame and the side-pipe mount.
I'm really sick of all the make shift rigs and would really like to have the correct set-up I just don't want to crack out the the headers anywhere.
I was actually considering a solid motor mount then socking up on the sidepipe mount fasteners.
any thoughts on this fellas, anybody running solid motor mounts or have some sound advice?
Thanks...Dave

[dmswann]

I installed a heavy duty truck bed mat in a 1978 Chevy Suburban a few year back and had to cut it to size. That left me with some heavy-rubber, fiber re-inforced strips that are about 1/4" thick. I used a 2" hole saw and fabricated some washers from the material. I put one between the mount and the frame at each sidepipe support location. They worked great. Compressibe enough to keep bolts tight and also provided some cushion preventing the metal-to-metal contact point. I have some of this material and can make you 4-washers if you would like. Just send me your address!

[davids2toys]

Hey Dennis,
That is very nice of you, sounds like a better material than what i am using for sure. i will PM you my address.
did you tighten up on the fastener? Did you use locktight?

This will be a nice addition to what i have, however, eventually I would like have the whole situatuion corrected the proper way instead of work-arounds.

[RJacobsen]

The problem is how do you rubber mount the exhaust and leave the bolt loose enough for it to allow movement but tight enough to not fall out? What I did was eliminate the bolt and install a stud instead. You can use all thread or cut the end off of a bolt with enough threads on it and screw that in where the bolt goes, use a jam nut to lock it into place. Make some rubber washers out of what ever you have, floor mat, mud flap, or bed liner and use them on both sides of the side pipe flanges. Use a large enough metal washer to cover the rubber washer and a locking nut to hold it all together.

[mkassab]

The problem is how do you rubber mount the exhaust and leave the bolt loose enough for it to allow movement but tight enough to not fall out? What I did was eliminate the bolt and install a stud instead. You can use all thread or cut the end off of a bolt with enough threads on it and screw that in where the bolt goes, use a jam nut to lock it into place. Make some rubber washers out of what ever you have, floor mat, mud flap, or bed liner and use them on both sides of the side pipe flanges. Use a large enough metal washer to cover the rubber washer and a locking nut to hold it all together.


This is a good way to do it..... But I'll offer another suggestion. From a auto parts store, buy a cheap exhaust pipe hanger... one with a rubber fiber donut... something like http://www.amazon.com/Walker-Exhaust-35600-Universal-Hanger/dp/B000CQBGEQ or like this http://www.autoanything.com/exhausts-mufflers/201A1753.aspx or this http://www.discountexhaustsystems.com/shop/?PN=2490&N=0&Nr=AND(category:Exhaust)

see attached picture for my choice. then you'd fasten top to frame and bottom to side pipe mount.

My $0.02
Mark

[Aggressor]

Bolt it up tight as it comes from Unique. No insultators should ever be used. Verify this statement with Unique. As most of you know my engine is capable of extreme torque/horsepower and is doing well with stock engine mounts and hard mounted sidepipes as per original.

The 1st 13,000 miles with 500 HP on tap - No Problems
The last 7,000 miles with Dual Superchargers added - No Problems
The next 20,000 miles - No problems anticipated due to track record to date.

With Unique being intimately associated with these vehicles since 1977 check with them.

I did.

-Geary

[Stan]

I used a couple of rubber upper shock bushings and tightened the brackets down with no problems.

[Aggressor]

Stan - There have been recent broken sidepipe mount events listed on this forum.
Search and read comments by Eliminator and GeorgiaSnake on this topic.

Give Maurice a call.

- Geary

[davids2toys]

The problem is how do you rubber mount the exhaust and leave the bolt loose enough for it to allow movement but tight enough to not fall out? What I did was eliminate the bolt and install a stud instead. You can use all thread or cut the end off of a bolt with enough threads on it and screw that in where the bolt goes, use a jam nut to lock it into place. Make some rubber washers out of what ever you have, floor mat, mud flap, or bed liner and use them on both sides of the side pipe flanges. Use a large enough metal washer to cover the rubber washer and a locking nut to hold it all together.
Sound a little better than what I have presently
First off, where do you put the first jam nut for the rear mount, it is a closed box tube with no access to the threads.
I do like the stud idea better than the bolts which I am using washers for adjustment.
Thanks

[davids2toys]

This is a good way to do it..... But I'll offer another suggestion. From a auto parts store, buy a cheap exhaust pipe hanger... one with a rubber fiber donut... something like http://www.amazon.com/Walker-Exhaust-35600-Universal-Hanger/dp/B000CQBGEQ or like this http://www.autoanything.com/exhausts-mufflers/201A1753.aspx or this http://www.discountexhaustsystems.com/shop/?PN=2490&N=0&Nr=AND(category:Exhaust (http://www.discountexhaustsystems.com/shop/?PN=2490&N=0&Nr=AND%28category:Exhaust))

see attached picture for my choice. then you'd fasten top to frame and bottom to side pipe mount.

My $0.02
Mark
Thanks Mark,
I do like your choice in mount, do you have a link for it? Also, it looks pretty big, how in the world would you get that between the frame and the side-pipe mount???
Am I missing something here?

[davids2toys]

Bolt it up tight as it comes from Unique. No insultators should ever be used. Verify this statement with Unique. As most of you know my engine is capable of extreme torque/horsepower and is doing well with stock engine mounts and hard mounted sidepipes as per original.

The 1st 13,000 miles with 500 HP on tap - No Problems
The last 7,000 miles with Dual Superchargers added - No Problems
The next 20,000 miles - No problems anticipated due to track record to date.

With Unique being intimately associated with these vehicles since 1977 check with them.

I did.

-Geary
Wow, I am amazed, just does not sound possible without a solid motor mount, but i may take a chance and just try it down the road. What you are saying is what Unique told me also! Just does not make sense to me.:confused:

[Aggressor]

Dave - I went through the same rationallizing back in the day. We all do.

I do a few other things that other owners take exception to but I have a 20,000 mile success rating so far. I don't have heat shielding on my master cylinders and did not use thermoshield under the front fenders. To date the fiberglass above my headers is smooth and the paint is good. I did replace a clutch master at around 8000 miles (as I recall) but I have had no other exceptions and chalk it up to randon early mortality. Maurice looked over my car and we discussed these items at the Carlisle replica/import show 3 weeks ago.

- Geary

[RJacobsen]

Sound a little better than what I have presently
First off, where do you put the first jam nut for the rear mount, it is a closed box tube with no access to the threads.
I do like the stud idea better than the bolts which I am using washers for adjustment.
Thanks

I have the jam nut for front and rear on the bottom and drilled the hole in the side pipe flange out to clear it.

[mkassab]

Thanks Mark,
I do like your choice in mount, do you have a link for it? Also, it looks pretty big, how in the world would you get that between the frame and the side-pipe mount???
Am I missing something here?

the last link takes you to the mount I like.... they have many to choose from. As far as mounting, you'll have to be creative and do some modifications. The rubber ring may have to go around vs between... or add your own bracket to side of frame.... But at the end of the day.... i think the best advice I've seen is call Maurice.... if there is an issue, he'd be aware.

Mark

[davids2toys]

Dave - I went through the same rationallizing back in the day. We all do.

I do a few other things that other owners take exception to but I have a 20,000 mile success rating so far. I don't have heat shielding on my master cylinders and did not use thermoshield under the front fenders. To date the fiberglass above my headers is smooth and the paint is good. I did replace a clutch master at around 8000 miles (as I recall) but I have had no other exceptions and chalk it up to randon early mortality. Maurice looked over my car and we discussed these items at the Carlisle replica/import show 3 weeks ago.

- Geary
Thanks Geary,
I do respect what you and Unique are saying but I just can't wrap my brain around it, it just sounds like asking for trouble, I also see there are many schools of thought on this subject. I am going to be stubborn for now and go the flex route again. For now anyway!

[davids2toys]

I have the jam nut for front and rear on the bottom and drilled the hole in the side pipe flange out to clear it.
I was looking at mine today and the holes are already large enough for a jam nut. I also bought some allen headed studs. I am thinking that the shoulders on the bolts if sized correctly will bottom out , along with lock-tight should hold fine. I am going to go with the rubber between the flange and the frame, but I am going to use the springs on the bottom, between the bolt head and the flange along with washers I bought some new springs today.
I also measured the gaps and will sizes the rubber to the gaps in the unloaded position. i have 1./4 inch on the drivers side and barely a 1/16 on the pass side, I will add this gap is not even at all, very tapered
I also made some rubber bushings for the hole in the flange, worked great, I made them from fuel line, fits aound the bolt perfect...now I am cushioned both ways!
I will watch this set-up for a while as I run the car, if it starts loosening up I will go the jam nut route as you did.
Thanks you everyone for all the input.
If anybody wants me to take some pics, let me know.
Thanks again...Dave

[mkassab]

Well, I for one want pictures..... !!

Thanks Mark

[Slither]

Well, I for one want pictures..... !!

Thanks Mark

Yah, pics[thumb]!

[davids2toys]

Ok, it will be a few days, but I will get to it

[davebetts]

I've been running for six years now. Had to remove once or twice. Street drive and raced. Big block - 500 + HP.
Never had any issues - bolt it down and drive. Especially if that's what the Weavers have already said.
That's my 2 cents.

[Glenview289]

Brian and I agree with Dave and Geary, bolt them up and forget them. Being two engineers, we would have jumped at the idea of making something more complex than it needed to be, but the fact is, it works as designed! One tip, just make sure the engine, headers, and drive train are all bolted down securely in their final position before mounting the side pipes. Mount the side pipe to the collector, there is a slight amount of play in the 3 bolts to adjust for your desired position. Place the mounting brackets on loosely. Tighten the collector first, then before you tighten the mounting brackets, make sure each bolt is free in the mounting holes to the pipe and frame. Do not push on the side pipe to match up to the bracket! This will put a side load on the mont, and the constant pressure will work it loose over time. Some elongating or opening up the diameter of the bracket holes may be required. Tighten everything down and you are good to go. We have 4K miles and a few track days, and the side pipes have not moved or become loose.

Bill

[davids2toys]

The guys who are just bolting it up, that's great and I have all the respect for the knowledge and opinions, but I would like to know why it works and does not crack out when providing no flex in a system that is flexing all around the mount...if everything was solid mounted, then I would totally understand. So can you inform the people who have chosen the flex route why it is OK to solid mount.
Also, I did not build my car so I had no control in setting up the collecter/header combo. I have gaps on both sides and they are different from each other, the flex I am providing is not that much, it is really more of a cushion than anything else. I don't think this could possibly cause a crack as a few have suggested. I searched for the threads about providing flex causing cracks and could not find anything
Anyway, I have attached a few pics. The bracket with the small gap is the passenger side which I have not done yet, this is a very small gap. The small round bushing is from a piece of fuel line, it goes in the bracket hole and the bolt goes thru it. I will no doubt use the smaller length bolts on the Passenger side because of the smaller gap. I ended up with the spring being about 1/2 way compressed. The blue color on the spring is lock-tight.
Dave

[mkassab]

Nice set up..... while direct bolt-up may be fine, I have to believe this is as good or better. [thumb]

Mark

[K.Wilson]

I used a piece of .090 thick gasket material between the frame and the bracket so I would not have metal to metal contact then I bolted it down just like the Weavers say to.

That was in 1993 (OMG that is 17 years ago) and I have never had a problem. Although it may not seem like it, there is quite a bit of "flex' in the side pipes/headers that is more than enough to accomodate the "flex" in the engine mounts.

Keith

[davids2toys]

I used a piece of .090 thick gasket material between the frame and the bracket so I would not have metal to metal contact then I bolted it down just like the Weavers say to.

That was in 1993 (OMG that is 17 years ago) and I have never had a problem. Although it may not seem like it, there is quite a bit of "flex' in the side pipes/headers that is more than enough to accomodate the "flex" in the engine mounts.

Keith
The Weavers actually said no rubber at all. Also, .090 is not.250 or better, some guys even reported 3/4 of an inch. I cannot believe it would be a good thing to just close this gap up with a bolt. I build helicopters for a living and we don't pre-load anything at all, if it has a gap, we shim it!
interesting about the flex in the pipes though, I did think about that but decided this was the safer way because I don't know how much flex is in the pipes and I am not an engineer so I can't figure it out. I wonder if there is a way to figure it out..I'm sure there is, but not for my little brain:)!

[davids2toys]

Nice set up..... while direct bolt-up may be fine, I have to believe this is as good or better. [thumb]

Mark
exactly[thumb]

[RJacobsen]

The bracket with the small gap is the passenger side which I have not done yet, this is a very small gap.Dave

The flange on the side pipe can be tweeked to increase that gap. you can probably do it on the car if you can get something on it to give it a bend.

[Glenview289]

Dave,

"......I would totally understand. So can you inform the people who have chosen the flex route why it is OK to solid mount."

Because it works! The three replies with solid mounts are 2 BB & 1 SB engine with a wide range of HP and 2 different ways of mounting, all without issues. I guess I would reverse the question to "If you are having an issue with nonstandard flexable mounts, why would you not want to go to the as designed hard mounts?" Your helicopter experience has shown you to shim gaps and bolt up solid, that is exactly what we re doing with solid mounted side pipes. Remember, if you let it move, it is going to move. As mentioned above, the side pipes do have some flex, as well as the frame itself. Solid mounting will get everything moving together. If I were to go to a flexable mount, it would probably look similar to what you came up with, except I would probably go with studs welded to the frame as Rod suggested and bolt it up to the rubber spacer and leave off the spring. I cannot see how the springs would stop the torque of a 500 HP of engine from deflecting unless they were condiderably heavier. I know how irratating it is to deal with persistant issues on the car and wish you well with your fix. Update us after your road tests.

Bill

[davids2toys]

The flange on the side pipe can be tweeked to increase that gap. you can probably do it on the car if you can get something on it to give it a bend.
Not really an issue so I won't bother, thanks though.

[davids2toys]

Dave,

"......I would totally understand. So can you inform the people who have chosen the flex route why it is OK to solid mount."

Because it works! The three replies with solid mounts are 2 BB & 1 SB engine with a wide range of HP and 2 different ways of mounting, all without issues. I guess I would reverse the question to "If you are having an issue with nonstandard flexable mounts, why would you not want to go to the as designed hard mounts?" Your helicopter experience has shown you to shim gaps and bolt up solid, that is exactly what we re doing with solid mounted side pipes. Remember, if you let it move, it is going to move. As mentioned above, the side pipes do have some flex, as well as the frame itself. Solid mounting will get everything moving together. If I were to go to a flexable mount, it would probably look similar to what you came up with, except I would probably go with studs welded to the frame as Rod suggested and bolt it up to the rubber spacer and leave off the spring. I cannot see how the springs would stop the torque of a 500 HP of engine from deflecting unless they were considerably heavier. I know how irratating it is to deal with persistent issues on the car and wish you well with your fix. Update us after your road tests.

Bill
Bill i do see some of your points for sure. But the bolt it up guys are not saying anything about shimming, if you just bolt it up you are preloading the part, that is a bad thing, unless you are talking about a torsion bar which we are not. So the guy with the 3/4 inch gap should just put a bolt in and go for it? Sounds like a bad idea to me, that, at a minimum, needs to be shimmed in its natural state.
The springs I have are not meant to stop the torque, just cushion it so it provides a little flex. as i said, they are already 1/2 compressed.
I do disagree on the point when you saying everything is moving together mounted solid...your way they would not be moving together, my way they are, this has been my point the whole time.
Your way: motor mount(flexible), Tranny mount(flexible), side-pipe mount(solid and preloaded, NOT Flexible)
My way:
Motor mount (flexible), tranny mount (flexible), Side pipe mount (flexible and not preloaded)
Also, as I said, I am not an engineer so you may be correct in all you say, but some of us are just not to comfortable with it and just don't understand the "do it because I said so" with not much of an explanation approach. No disrespect intended!
The only reason I am doing/re-doing it is because it was done poorly in my opinion by the previous owner and the bolts vibrated loose and out, so I wanted to just make it better than it was. It has been like this for 17 years, so it cant be too bad.
If I was to solid mount down the road, I would at least still shim the gap with rubber first.
I will definitely update this thread with any problems, if I have any. I am figuring the lock tight may not hold, then I will switch to studs and jam nuts.

[mkassab]

welded studs would be great.... but if your frame is powder coated then I wouldn't weld. I suggest you leave as is with to possitle exceptions. 1) add a jame nut to your bolt (a thin one) and tighten down on frame. and/or 2) do the "aircraft" thing... i.e., drill a small hole in your bolt within your spring area and add saftey wire to it.

[davids2toys]

I already purchased allen headed studs (I think they are called cap sockets) and jam nuts. These studs only came black oxide and grade 8. Only 98 cents a piece...lol

[Glenview289]

This link will lead to our build forum that shows modifications we did to our motor mounts. It is basically a 5/16" bolt that replaces the rivit that holds the mounting plates and rubber together in the motor mount. The Contemporary Cobra site recomends this on their cars. Their build site is an excellet resource for info as they also use Jag components. Lots of good tips! This mod will take about 50% of the movement out of the motor mount as it allows movement in compression only, while still giving the rubbers isolation properties to minimize engine vibrations.

http://www.uniquecobra.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6836

Bill

[davids2toys]

This link will lead to our build forum that shows modifications we did to our motor mounts. It is basically a 5/16" bolt that replaces the rivit that holds the mounting plates and rubber together in the motor mount. The Contemporary Cobra site recomends this on their cars. Their build site is an excellet resource for info as they also use Jag components. Lots of good tips! This mod will take about 50% of the movement out of the motor mount as it allows movement in compression only, while still giving the rubbers isolation properties to minimize engine vibrations.

http://www.uniquecobra.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6836

Bill
Very interesting, I will have to take a look at that. The Weavers or anyone else never mentioned this...Thanks![thumb]
Have not really looked at the motor mount except to feel it to determine if it was solid or not. Can this mod be done without removing the motor mount or lifting the engine.
That is a good link, makes me want to post the driveshaft loop we made...loop section removes with 2 pins(30 seconds), also incorporates the seat belt mounts to the bar section so now it is basically mounted to the frame instead of thru the fiberglass floor only. i never like that original set up, seemed like it would pull right thru the flooor in a good crash!

[davids2toys]

Just looked around for the contemporary site with no luck, could you provide a link?

[mkassab]

Very interesting, I will have to take a look at that. The Weavers or anyone else never mentioned this...Thanks![thumb]
Have not really looked at the motor mount except to feel it to determine if it was solid or not. Can this mod be done without removing the motor mount or lifting the engine.
That is a good link, makes me want to post the driveshaft loop we made...loop section removes with 2 pins(30 seconds), also incorporates the seat belt mounts to the bar section so now it is basically mounted to the frame instead of thru the fiberglass floor only. i never like that original set up, seemed like it would pull right thru the flooor in a good crash!

I'd like to see you "loop" set-up

[mkassab]

Just looked around for the contemporary site with no luck, could you provide a link?
I just Googled Contemporary Cobra.... nothing specific.... maybe club cobra?

[Glenview289]

Sorry, my mistake. It is ERA's site. Try this link.

http://www.erareplicas.com/427/sampman.pdf

I am not sure if the motor mount mod can be done with the mount in the car, but may be able to be done one side at time with a jack under the oil pan and hanging on the other mount. We have changed the mounting bolts this way. Remember this is endorsed by ERA, not Unique. Drag racers have used this modification and engine plates to limit engine movement for quite a while.

Bill

[davids2toys]

I'd like to see you "loop" set-up
Here ya go

[davids2toys]

Sorry, my mistake. It is ERA's site. Try this link.

http://www.erareplicas.com/427/sampman.pdf

I am not sure if the motor mount mod can be done with the mount in the car, but may be able to be done one side at time with a jack under the oil pan and hanging on the other mount. We have changed the mounting bolts this way. Remember this is endorsed by ERA, not Unique. Drag racers have used this modification and engine plates to limit engine movement for quite a while.

Bill
Don't see it in here either...check it out!

[mkassab]

Thanks David for the pictures... so it looks like you attached th bottom brace to the frame, made the loop of Pipe that sets on smaller pipe. The loop held on with pins. Very good!

[spd4me]

Hay Dave, looking at the pic showing the muffler with 2 bolts reminds me of the post last week about the F15 carrier fly-by being an optical illusiion. In your pic, it looks like the car is smashed up against the floor joist.
Bob

[davids2toys]

Hay Dave, looking at the pic showing the muffler with 2 bolts reminds me of the post last week about the F15 carrier fly-by being an optical illusiion. In your pic, it looks like the car is smashed up against the floor joist.
Bob
I wouild have never realized that if you had not pointed it out.
Good eye!

[davids2toys]

Update:
So far so good, nothing has backed out,cracked, or changed at all.

[eliminator]

I am glad I have already finished my car.:3g:

Who would have ever though there we would be this much discussion on attaching side-pipes.

All I can say is a solid mount with 1/4" of conveyor belt (Fabric / Rubber) material with a 1/4 inch hole punched in it sure has lasted a long time.:banana:

[davids2toys]

I am glad I have already finished my car.:3g:

Who would have ever though there we would be this much discussion on attaching side-pipes.

All I can say is a solid mount with 1/4" of conveyor belt (Fabric / Rubber) material with a 1/4 inch hole punched in it sure has lasted a long time.:banana:
You must have been thinking along the same lines when you were building your car. A piece of 1/4' rubber material is not a solid mount. Unique says to do bolt it directly to the frame with no insulator or cushion, now that is a solid mount!
:)

[eliminator]

I guess you could say that......the conveyor belt material really does a good job. Whatever it's made from the heat doesn't effect it. I changed the material once when I changed out to the spiral baffle sidepipes. Used stainless steel fastners and washers.[thumb]

[mkassab]

I guess you could say that......the conveyor belt material really does a good job. Whatever it's made from the heat doesn't effect it. I changed the material once when I changed out to the spiral baffle sidepipes. Used stainless steel fastners and washers.[thumb]

Rick, I see that you use the upgraded spiral side pipe mufflers. Did you get them from Unique? I wanted the freest flow muffler I could get and Maurice suggested these..... So that's what he is building for me. He also said I might notice some inside mounting/weld points on the outside with the spirals..... ? Do you see this? How's the sound compared to the stock muffler Unique uses? Anyway, He’s building them now that he has my engine. He’s targeting to have them completed for the end of the month so I can have Reldon pick them up after his Cobra’s visit for a MSD ignition upgrade and bring them back to Florida for me. I have a local ceramic coater and can have them done before the car is completed and the rust sets in. Your thoughts welcome.

Mark

[davids2toys]

Rick, I see that you use the upgraded spiral side pipe mufflers. Did you get them from Unique? I wanted the freest flow muffler I could get and Maurice suggested these..... So that's what he is building for me. He also said I might notice some inside mounting/weld points on the outside with the spirals..... ? Do you see this? How's the sound compared to the stock muffler Unique uses? Anyway, He’s building them now that he has my engine. He’s targeting to have them completed for the end of the month so I can have Reldon pick them up after his Cobra’s visit for a MSD ignition upgrade and bring them back to Florida for me. I have a local ceramic coater and can have them done before the car is completed and the rust sets in. Your thoughts welcome.

Mark
I am also very interested in these spiral flow mufflers. Are these the loudest freest flowing we can get for our cars.
I think Unique is now doing the ends straight out to the side, my car is a 93 and I like them turned down on the 45 deg angle they probably just do that in the welding jig.
What is the cost of doing this?

[mkassab]

Dave, here's what I know (think). Unique offers only these two muffler options from my discussions with Maurice. Not sure on the cost as it's part of my build cost quote. Suggest you call Maurice for $$$s.

[davids2toys]

Dave, here's what I know (think). Unique offers only these two muffler options from my discussions with Maurice. Not sure on the cost as it's part of my build cost quote. Suggest you call Maurice for $$$s.
Thank you, not quite ready to do it yet, just wanted an idea of how much.

[eliminator]

"Rick, I see that you use the upgraded spiral side pipe mufflers. Did you get them from Unique? I wanted the freest flow muffler I could get and Maurice suggested these..... So that's what he is building for me. He also said I might notice some inside mounting/weld points on the outside with the spirals..... ? Do you see this? How's the sound compared to the stock muffler Unique uses? Anyway, He’s building them now that he has my engine. "

I did get them from Unique, Yes you see the weld points on the Spiral Baffles. It's not a big deal and really dosn't stick out that much. They are louder than the stock side pipes, actually sound good to me. I did notice a performance enhancement when I swithched. Seat of the pants change
.[thumb]

[mkassab]

Rick,

That's music to my ears and what I wanted to hear! :o

[davids2toys]

Well I ordered the spiral flow exhaust, they are about 670.00 not shipped. The ends do go down on a 45 deg angle if anyone is interested in that tidbit. I was because Maurice had told me in the past that the pipes exit straight out now, but he was mistaken and told me they will exit down on a 45 deg angle. I was going to have him make them on a 45 if they weren't!
Side pipe Mounts update:
Holding up perfectly, and that is after a very hard last 3 weekends of very very spirited driving. Since doing these mounts I have put on at least 1500 miles and they have not move at all, I have not touched them! If anything bad happens in the future I will post it on this thread.
Dave