Engine & Cooling

[mkassab]

I'll start with the engine:
Brent, co-owner of B2 Motorsports LLC (email brent@b2motorsportsllc.com (brent@b2motorsportsllc.com) ), who is an expert in engine, clutch and transmissions. I saw some of his posts (and there is a ton of them) where he was very responsive with his advice and knowledge (and time to type it all in!). I contacted him and he helped me put together the right drive train package (i.e., tranny/clutch/bell housing combination) for the engine I intended to buy from the Engine Factory.com. He was so engaging, knowledgeable and accessible. I soon learned he’s an expert engine builder. I got references and called them….. In the end, I hired Brent to build me the engine. I pick up the engine on July 8th at the dyno shop. The TKO600 Transmission, clutch kit, bell housing and short shifter were drop shipped to Unique Motorcars.

On the engine front, I went with a complete turnkey engine. . I shopped around on the Internet and I narrowed my choices to several local shops and a large US supplier. In the end I went with Brent at B2 MotorSports. Brent is also very active on the Club Cobra forum, along with other Ford forums. Brent completely customized the engine specifically at my request (with lots of help and insight from him). Brent will match your engine & cam, trany gears and rear end gear ratio to suit your specific driving needs. When I pick up the engine on July 8th, I’ll witness the dyno and final tuning. I'll tell you how it runs in the car in several months.
I’m going with a new DART IronEagle Sportsman block (rated for 1200 HP) based on the Ford 351W engine block size/shape (which allows a lot of “bolt-on options)…. Dart blocks are “beefier” with extra iron in all the right places that allow more cubic inches than a Ford OEM 351W block…. Therefore, my DART block will be bored and stroked to 427 cubic inch and produce about 575 HP and 575 ft/lbs of torque. I have a separate engine thread where I’ll go into more details and post the dyno sheet. For as light a car as the Cobra, about 2400 lbs, this combination is more than enough power/torque, this will maintain the true Cobra engine 427ci but in a smaller size, less weight than a big block, improved handling and many, many options that bolt on to the 351W. It was very important to me to have a 427ci, but I don’t care that I don’t have a Big Block 427, i.e, a small block 427 is just fine and has more options & will make more power. The small block should work just fine for what I want and in the end, shouldn't hurt resale value.

My parts list with Brent, B2 Motorsports LLC was:
Final Part ItemFinal Part NumberDart IronEagle Sportsman 351W Block, 9.500"31355235Scat 4340 Crankshaft, 4.000" Stroke4351C50Scat 7/16 4340 Rods, 6.200"ICR6200-7/16Wiseco Forged PistonsPT065HSClevite Main BearingsMS1010HClevite Rod BearingsCB663HN, CB663HN1AFR 205 Heads1450Comp Cams Solid Roller Cam35-000-9Comp Cams Solid Roller Lifters838-16Stainless Steel Bolt KitMelling Select Oil Pump10833Felpro Rear Main SealBS40592Felpro Oil Pan GasketQS30214CARP Oil Pump Drive Shaft154-7901ARP Crank Bolt150-2501ARP Cam Retainer Bolts250-1001ARP Oil Pump/Pickup Bolts150-6902ARP Flywheel Bolts100-2801ARP Cylinder Head Bolts154-3603Ford Racing Timing SetM-6268-A302Trick Flow Hardened Pushrods21408250RAM Flywheel1507Comp Cams Roller Rockers19044-16Ford Racing Fuel Pump EccentricM-6287-C302Edelbrock Super Victor Intake2924Weiand Water Pump2510OEM Ford Timing CoverMoroso Oil Pan, Dipstick, Pickup20501CVR Gear Drive Starter5055Quick Fuel Q-Series CarburetorQ-950Fuel Block Off PlateComp Cams Polymer Distributor Gear35100MSD Distributor8578MSD Coil8202MSD Coil Bracket8213Ford Racing Distributor ClampM-12270-A302Tuff Stuff 100A 1-Wire Alternator7068RAM Clutch Kit98769TTremec TKO 600 short shaffTCET 4617SSLakewood Bellhousing15200

[mkassab]

Here's a few pictures of some add-ons:
Accusump pre oiler, fuel pump and filters, custom CNC machined header flanges for 1 7/8s header pipe, header to side pipe CNC flanges, fuel line to carb and regulator. For the Ignition, I went with a MSD 6AL-2 programable

[mkassab]

Adding coolant.... the best system I've ever seen..... AVOID those "start-up" hot spots.

Here’s the Proper way to fill a cooling system using the Airlift System

Detailed Description:
The Problem: Airlocks in the cooling system of today's vehicles have become a prevalent problem. They can be caused by the positioning of the radiator at a level equal to or lower than the engine. Upon refilling with liquid, air is trapped in the cooling system reducing circulation. This results in overheating, added installation time and other problems. While OEM's have attempted to address this by installing air bleed devices on the cooling circuit, they are still plagued by airlocks

The Solution: The UView Airlift system purges those problematic airlocks, checks for vacuum leaks and then allows the technician to refill the system quickly and easily.

The Process: 1) Connect your shop air to Airlift & pull vacuum 2) Check for leaks 3) Insert refill hose in container of antifreeze, watch the cooling system fill within seconds

Google UView Airlift Cooling System

Here’s an Amazon.com link to buy http://www.amazon.com/UView-550000-Airlift-Cooling-Checker/dp/B0002SRH5G (http://www.amazon.com/UView-550000-Airlift-Cooling-Checker/dp/B0002SRH5G)

Here’s a video on it use from the Engine Factory
http://mustangengines.com/Techvideos.htm (http://mustangengines.com/Techvideos.htm) then click video #17 ” Proper way to fill a cooling system”

[mkassab]

Here's my oil system setup.... all Canton parts, 2 oil filters, a oil thermostat to control flow through the oil cooler, check valve and the accusump.

[mkassab]

Cooling fans... ah, the hot south... I ended up with the two traditional pusher fans and then added a large pull fan behind the radiator. You notice in my electrical diagram, I have a switch on the dash that will be "ON" as the normal setting, but the ground will be conntected to a sending unit that monitors the water temp. When the temp reaches 200 degs or higher, the sending unit switch will engage and cause the fans to get grounded, therefore, turn on. You'll note in the picture a second sensor in the package. This is a safty shut-off switch for the electric fuel pump incase of an accident. The way it works is if the eng stops, and no oil pressure, the sender switch is opened and the power is killed to the pump. At eng startup, with no oil presure, the sender passed power from the starter to power the pump.... so, while starting, power from starter to pump, you make oil presure, which in turn closed the sender switch to power the pump from the normal "on" power vs the starter.

[mkassab]

If anyone wants to get into the details of the engine build you have several options?
1) (preferred). Post to this thread so all can benefit. Either I or Brent (or anyone reading the thread) will respond, answer, or debate
2) Contact Brent direct email: brent@b2motorsportsllc.com (brent@b2motorsportsllc.com)

[mkassab]

I just found this site that might be useful to someone considering a DART block

Here's a highlighted paragraph:
The Dart block replicates the original Ford 351W in terms of basic design and layout, but with several enhancements. Cylinder walls and decks are beefier, allowing much more custom machining latitude. The block also features priority main oiling system. The block material itself is much more rigid (high nickel alloy content iron block) and much more suited to high performance and/or racing applications. The main caps are machined billet steel, anchored with four bolts each (with splayed outboard center caps). The block also requires the use of a crankshaft that features Cleveland-sized (2.749”) main journals for added robustness. In short, Dart re-engineered the 351W block to meet today’s performance requirements. Basically, the Dart block makes the original Ford W block look like the skinny kid on the beach. Dart’s block is a brute, which basically blends the best from both the Windsor and Cleveland designs, along with Dart’s own performance enhancements.

http://www.precisionenginetech.com/project-engine-builds/2009/12/11/dart-427w-part-1/

[sllib]

I like your valve covers. I looked them up but couldn't find them in "tall" only stock height. Did they fit over your roller rocker arms or did you have to use a spacer? You have the same engine set-up as me so if they fit yours...

[mkassab]

I like your valve covers. I looked them up but couldn't find them in "tall" only stock height. Did they fit over your roller rocker arms or did you have to use a spacer? You have the same engine set-up as me so if they fit yours...

Height is no problem..... look at the end view. From my research, they only come in tall! No spacer needed. They also have the oil "splash guard" baffle... it was very hard to find a SBF valve cover with 427 on it... I guess because there aren't many SBF 427s? In any case, Ford Racing just came out with these covers because they now offer a SBF 427 base on a beefed up BOSS block. One of the key features I like (other than the 427) is the top of the cover has two surfaces with one going “horizontal” and the other parallel to the heads. I attached an end shot picture...
Mark

[mkassab]

Bill ... I should have included the link to where I got the valve covers. When I ordered them, this was the only site I found that could get them. I'd think you could find elsewhere by now?

Mark

http://sitesearch.cjponyparts.com/search?keywords=427+valve+cover

[sllib]

I found them on the Ford Racing site, Summit, and Jegs. The last two were cheaper but didn't include the bits and pieces to make them work; Ford did. I'm using unsigned Edelbrock Elites now and the more I look at them the more I don't like them. I also went with a stud kit and T-bar hold-downs. Besides giving the engine a cool vintage hotrod look that makes it a snap to get the valve covers off to adjust the valves.
Bill

[Gary Lewis]

Mark,
I know I'm way out of my depth here and I'm sure you have this covered, but just in case.... You said "When the temp reaches 200 degs or higher, the sending unit switch will engage and cause the fans to get grounded". Is there truly a switch on the sending unit, one that is designed to handle the current of a motor - or two? The sending units I'm familiar with can't handle that much current, but are capable of pulling in a relay which handles the current of the motor.

Ciao,
Gary

[mkassab]

correct Gary... it will ground a relay.
Mark

[eliminator]

Mark,

I just talked to Brent this AM, didn't realize he was so close to me.
His operation is in Simsonville, Ky that is very close to Louisville, KY.
Will have to run by and talk to him some time. Good to have Ford engine builders in KY.

[mkassab]

Rick, Brent is the real deal with it comes to engines, trans, etc. I just spoke with him an hour ago.... he called fromt the Dyno shop.... the first pulls from my new engine are showing ~560HP at 6200 RPM and ~530 torque. Tomorrow morning I meet him there, witness the finall tuning, etc and load it up and take to Maurice and Alan..... I'll post the actual spec sheet they give me.

Mark

[Slither]

Hope you are having a good trip, Mark[thumb]. Let us know how it goes...

[mkassab]

Well, I'm in the hotel in Gadsden with my "dyno'd" engine. If was fun watching the process, e.g., valve adjustments, carb jet changes, etc, etc. They ended up de-tuning a bit to make it better for street use. I ended up with 560 peak torque at 4400 RPM and 562 peak HP at 6500 RPM. I'll scan the spec sheet over the weekend and post it. When the car is on the road, I plan to take it back to the dyno and see what HP is at the back tires hitting the road. Looking forward to seeing Alan and Maurice tomorrow...

included a few picts of the eng on the dyno.

Mark

[mkassab]

here's the dyno sheet

[Aggressor]

Your making good numbers Mark.

-Geary

[mkassab]

Yes, I felt very good about the numbers and several factors didn't help either.... like the temp as 98 degrees., very humid and his large size headers were damaged and we had you use the smaller more restrictive headers. With the AFR 205 heads, they have a second larger 3" bolt pattern that allow larger header pipe to be used. I bought the larger header and side pipe flanges and Maurice is going to use 1 7/8" pipe. I also upgrade to the high performance mufflers. Speaking of mufflers (sound) during the dyno test, I went outside several times to hear the roar of the new engine... both at idle and during the high rev. pulls... very sweet.
Mark

[TurnpikeBoy]

Dang nice numbers! Traction is gonna be a fun search, I think. What have you decided on for tires?

560 ft/lbs from a small block.....I don't think you're going to go looking for more power any time soon :).

[mkassab]

Dang nice numbers! Traction is gonna be a fun search, I think. What have you decided on for tires?

560 ft/lbs from a small block.....I don't think you're going to go looking for more power any time soon :).

Based on all my research, I went with the best road legal (DOT) race/street tire I could get… i.e, the Avon Racing Motorsport CR6ZZ tires. 295/50R-15 rears and 245/60R-15 fronts. Only issue with Avon Racing tires are, very $s expensive and only a few sources in the US to purchase. I found only 4 based on the dealer locator on the Avon Racing web site….. here’s the link to Avon Racing http://www.avonracing.com/home.html (http://www.avonracing.com/home.html)

You also mention the high eng torque….. well, I also ordered a 3.73 posi-traction rear…. So torque will be crazy!

[mkassab]

Here's a drawing for the oil and fuel systems and layout.
For the fuel system, I ended up with the Aeromotive electric fuel pump AEI-11203, 100 and 10 micron fuel filters (AEI-12308 & 12318) and a Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator AEI-13205.
For the Oil, I went with all Canton Racing products Accusump 3qt pre oiler (24-280), 2 CM Canister Oil Filters (25-106 large screen & 25-826 fine screen), Remote Oil Filter rotating/90 degs adapter (22-595), Oil Cooler Thermostat (22-480) and Oil Cooler.
The Accusump will pre oil the engine with 3 qt’s of oil before startup. At engine startup, the Accusump will refill with 3qts of oil. If oil pressure should ever drop low while engine is running, the Accusump would provide oil until pressure increased.

[eliminator]

Guees who makes the AVON Tires??? Cooper Tire in Ohio, intresting.

[mkassab]

Rick, you sure? Avon Racing is a British company. In fact, I had to wait for the "boat to come in" (literally) with their container of ordered tires. I did read somewhere that Cooper made Micky Thompson DOT legal tires? I believe I'd challenge the Avon's being made by Cooper. Do you have any links.... I'd be interested to know more?

Thanks Mark

[mkassab]

update:
Rick.... you kind of have it right based on further research I just did. It appears Cooper may own Avon... but Avon still does it "own thing" and manufactures it's tires in England. So it may be safe to say Cooper owns Avon, but the Cooper /Ohio does not manufacture Avon tires. If it every gets to Avon tire are no different than a Cooper tire.... well, people would not pay the $s and stop buying Avon. All the above based on some quick searches for what it's worth. Mark

[Slither]

here's the dyno sheet

For the engine gurus and experts:

Why do they start the dyno results at 4400prm?



Why don't they start off idle to see the whole torque/horsepower range?



Peaks are great... and important, but it seems that knowing how it performs down low is important too...

Thanks!

[mkassab]

You know Paul.... I had the same thought and failed to ask that question while there last Thur..... I'll have to defer to the board for that one.... Brent... please comment on this one.

Mark

[melcmd]

Yes, I too want to know full range of torque and HP....? :banana:

[mkassab]

Brent from B2 Motorsports is still waiting for his acct to be activated.... here's his reply:

Starting the graph at the torque peak is basically a function of the dyno software. Usually the torque peak is much lower than the horsepower peak (unless it's a narrow band drag motor or pulling motor). So using the two peaks as opposite ends on the graph usually provides a pretty broad set of curves.

Each engine's pull is determined by its application. An engine that has all bottom end and no top end power would be pulled down lower than an engine with no bottom end and all top end power. A lot of this is a function of the camshaft and its powerband. You guys with experience on high-strung race motors know that they don't like to be pulled down low; they like to rev. When you get a revvy engine in your hands, the powerbands are shifted upward in the curve on both the torque and hp curves. As an extreme example, a Cup motor makes peak hp at 8800 and peak torque at 6500. Of course it wouldn't make sense to start a dyno pull at 1500 rpm. Nor would it make sense to start a diesel engine pull at 4000.

In Mark's case, I informed the dyno operator of the application...a very light car with a low rearend gear and a torque monster of an engine. It's not really imperative to show what the engine makes at 2500 because you know it's going to be a lot. LOL The engine is making 475hp at only 4400 which is 50 hp more than a new Camaro SS at it's very peak. It's safe to say that at lower rpms, the hp and torque will be there.

To load an engine down at just off idle speed would be extremely hard on the engine. You can actually get some detonation and bucking from loading an engine as hard as it can be loaded at a low rpm. Keep in mind that with a dyno, you have the ability to choke the engine out if you wanted to.

I hope this answers some questions. I'm not very good at explaining things. If there's anything I can explain further, just let me know.

Brent

[eliminator]

Good to know, I run Avon motorcycle tires and they are made in England so all that fits.

We have a member running those tires and there is a thread on them.

Scott (Master) who has a 427 BB car in Cinn., OH. I think he likes the tires.

[mkassab]

Good to know, I run Avon motorcycle tires and they are made in England so all that fits.

We have a member running those tires and there is a thread on them.

Scott (Master) who has a 427 BB car in Cinn., OH. I think he likes the tires.

Thanks Rick, I'll check out the thread on the Avons. btw, while at Unique this past Friday, was looking at the Weaver's blue Cobra and noticed it had Avon's on it.
Mark

[mkassab]

Rick, read the Avon thread and saw you mentioned you liked 275/60. I have an Excel sheet to calculate tire sizes.... here's the comparison:

Mark
(btw, anyone wanting this Excel doc... let me know your email addrs and I'll email to you.... its a very good tool for changing tire/wheel dia and comparing any changes.)

UPDATE... the below was in a nice matrix format... easy to read, but the forum converted it to all text. So I added a Pict attachment to show how it would look in Excel.

Fill in green cellsOriginal Equipment Tire:Aftermarket Tire:Tread Width (mm.)295Tread Width (mm.)275Sidewall Ratio50Sidewall Ratio60Rim Diameter (in.)15Rim Diameter (in.)15Tire Diameter (mm.)676.00Tire Diameter (mm.)711.00Tire Diameter (in.)26.61Tire Diameter (in.)27.99Sidewall Height (mm.)147.50Sidewall Height (mm.)165.00Sidewall Height (in.)5.81Sidewall Height (in.)6.50Tread Width (in.)11.61Tread Width (in.)10.83Tire RPM @60 mph757.90Tire RPM @60 mph720.59Difference Ratio5.18%Stock Final Gearing3.54SpeedometerError @ 60 mph57.05Mod Effective Gearing3.37

[weaver]

Our blue car has Yokohama Avid STs.

[mkassab]

Our blue car has Yokohama Avid STs.

Gheezzzzzz... well Alan, you know I'm getting old, eyes bad, etc. when I looked at AVID and think I see AVON.... I need better glasses ! :confused: At least it has 4 letters and begins with AV..

[B2 Motorsports]

WOOHOO! I'm alive now!

[weaver]

welcome B2

[eliminator]

Mark,

I have done the math and converted, now I am a fan of the 295's.

I like both but the M/T's I just put on my car, 295's look better than the 275's (in my opinion).

So I had to be convinced!!!!:)

[Slither]

Mark,

I have done the math and converted, now I am a fan of the 295's.

I like both but the M/T's I just put on my car look 295's look better than the 275's (in my opinion).

So I had to be convinced!!!!:)


Refresh my memory, Rick... have you posted pics of your car with the new tires yet?

[eliminator]

No, not yet, although several people looked at them during Homecoming this year.

[Slither]

No, not yet, although several people looked at them during Homecoming this year.

Well...??? What 'cha waitin' for? Quick, show it off[thumb]! (I forgot to look at Homecoming.) And I realize that this might not be the thread to do it in.

[mkassab]

For the cooling, I'll have the traditional 2 front “pusher” cooling fans. I’ve added a SPAL 16” “pull” fan to the rear of the radiator. I’ll have one master fan switch for all 3 fans that will provide power to two relays. I’ll always leave the power switch on (normal position) unless I need to turn them off for some reason. The rear fan will be controlled by a variable speed and temp controller, see link and description below. The rear fan will start at low speed at 180degs. The front fans will kick in at 200degs (off at 180 degs).

Side note: I actually will have 3 switches that on in the normal on position (i.e., Fan, AccuSump and fuel pump). These three switches will have a flip-up safety cover, the switches will be turned upside down so when ON the switch lever is down, in the on position, and the cover closed. See the Interior, Dash Thread http://www.uniquecobra.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8225 (http://www.uniquecobra.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8225)

Variable Speed & Temp Fan Controller:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-31163/ (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-31163/)

Flex-a-lite variable speed controllers attach on or near the electric fan, sensing coolant temperature via a temperature sending unit. I’ll set fan speed from 60 to 100 percent, depending on the built-in thermostat's setting. The thermostats have a range of 160-220 degrees F. The variable speed controllers allow greater control over engine temperature, which helps to reduce charging spikes and current load on the charging system. It allow a maximum load of 30 amps, and keep the fans running for 30 seconds after your vehicle is turned off.

[mkassab]

For the engine gurus and experts:
Why do they start the dyno results at 4400prm?
Why don't they start off idle to see the whole torque/horsepower range?
Peaks are great... and important, but it seems that knowing how it performs down low is important too...
Thanks!

Paul, I believe I found another reason why the ~4400 RPM starting point is a non-issue... while entering data specific to my car at this popular link.. http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/GearCalc.html
It provides lots of data taking into account Eng peak HP, RPM range, tire size and transmission (TKO 600 w/.82 5th). In the chart below, I never drop below ~4300 RPM... so all my shift points are in the peak range.

Gear Change RPM drop (change @6500)
*************************************
1->2 -2220 (To 4280 RPM)
2->3 -2098 (To 4402 RPM)
3->4 -1422 (To 5078 RPM)
4->5 -1170 (To 5330 RPM)

Mark

[Slither]

Looks like your engine is famous now[thumb]!

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105974

[mkassab]

Paul... thanks for pointing that out. Brent, my engine builder, is really good and I hope his exposure on club cobra helps others you need engine builds or help. He's a wealth of knowledge for the entire drive train! The best part, he takes the time to talk and communicate with his customers :BEER:.
Mark

[mkassab]

You'll notice the black wrinkle coated/alum rib valve covers (picture above in previous threads) came with a breather and std PCV. I wanted both to look more like the valve covers.... So I searched and found these matching polished ribbed CNC's alum breather and enclosed PCV... problem was... didn't match the valve covers.... therefore, I sanded them, used acid etching heat primer and then a high heat wrinkle coating. I turned them upside down on a flat surface with 100 grit sand paper, followed by 320 grit, to remove the paint from the top of the ribs and flatten them a bit to better match the valve covers. Picts below of before and after.
Mark

[mkassab]

making some progress. See Trans/rear end thread for more picts.

[mkassab]

Most of the oil filter, accusump, elec valve and oil thermostat installed. One of the 2 oil filters is still yet to be installed. I'll run all the hoses when I get it. I'm going to install a single remote spin-on oil filter for the first ~500 miles, then drain oil, remove temp remote oil filter and then connect all you see. When I connect the entire oil sytems... it will add about ~6 qt's of oil (accu = 3 qt's,2 oil filters and oil thermostat = ~2 qt's and the oil cooler and hoses about ~1 qt oil) to the oil pan of 9 qt's.... therefore about 15 qt's of oil total capacity.
Mark

[mkassab]

In the past 2 weeks, all the ss braided hoses made and installed on the oil, gas and radiator.

[mkassab]

I finished the final touches in the engine bay, spark plug wire runs, final LED brackets (they blended in well, hard to see them). I also had to shorten a set screw on one of the steering U-joints. The set screw was hitting the gas pedal linkage and would cause it to stick until I turned the wheel one way or the other.
Mark