Interior, Custom Dash/Gauges, Ventilation, Seats

[mkassab]

While at homecoming, we gave Unique our deposit and walked aware with a plain dash so I could lay out the gauges in the format/scheme I want. I started by taping paper to the fiberglass dash and drew out several layouts to scale.... then picked the one we liked best. we took into account the steering wheel (note in picture where I sketched out on the paper. Also, note we will NOT have a traditional keyed start/on/acc or a lights pull switch. I'll have a seperate switch for the acc, Ing ON, start button, park lights and head lights. After we were certain of the layout... I started cutting. Also note I added a shift light center above the steering column that tied into the tach to the right of it. And finally, take a look at the custom switch labels I had made. This company is listed in the links thread.... ask for Kyle. I had all my labels made for $25.

[mkassab]

I can't tell you how happy I am with the gauges I had custom made by Speed Hut. I worked with Aaron there. Note the red Cobra Snake on the Tack and Speedo and the red COBRA text on all the gauges. I was able to pick the day and night color combos, the reverse speedo sweep, the yellow/red tack tick marks for the "red line", the mph range, the psi's ranges, etc. They have a very good web site to help visualize all this. I also got my "no moving parts" fuel level sensor and a dimmer. All the sending sensor units were included. The have many styles and sizes to choose from. I went with the GPS Speedo... no transmission cables are needed for speed. This GPS Speedo and provides time, time 0 to 60, 1/4 mile time, trip ometer and several other funtions. All gauges have some programing to do. See Speed Hut's web site for more details or just call Aaron.

[mkassab]

The Cobra logo is complete on the center panels of the seat backs and were shipped off to Unique’s upholster, Jim Holland. He’ll incorporate these along with the seat (butt and back) heaters. We’re getting close to d-day now.

The embroider work was done locally here in Pensacola area by Something Stitchy, Lynn Skipper owner. Their web site is www.somethingstitchy.com (http://www.somethingstitchy.com/) I did all my work remotely with her, i.e, email and phone. I sent her the artwork and she digitized it for her machine. Lynn also worked directly with the Jim... the leather guy. I stumbled upon Lynn... i.e, I bought my car hauler from her husband. It made it all very easy for me !!


Mark

[mkassab]

While at Unique yesterday.... I got a real surprise... the seats were done and I got to see them first hand.

Mark

[mkassab]

Completed the dash gauges, switches and ready to bo back to Unique.
Unique only needs to add the turn signals and high beam indicatiors in the 3 open holes.

Mark

[rosco]

Absolutely love the dash set-up! You certainly are a detailed person and wish you the best on this...

Need to post a video when you fire the car :)

Gino

[mkassab]

Gino... thanks for the comments.... I am very detailed, over engineer and over think things.... much to the dismay of my wife and Unique's Alan and Maurice Weaver :D
Mark

[Naumoff]

I like the dash. Looks racey.:3g:

Weavers are very traditional. LOL

I have a wild hair growing up my arse about redoing my Cobra but still along traditional lines.(AC Mark IV) I wish I wasn't talked out of a five speed trans though.

Build exactly what you want and enjoy.:)

[mkassab]

Tony... thanks for the comments. Not sure I'd call the Weaver's "traditional" though, i.e., the base 427 is what it is. But that's just the stating point. The Weaver's will do what ever you want.... but the customer needs to ask for it.

As far as why I went the direction I did, check my build thread "General Preperation for the Build... "Visual Style".

http://www.uniquecobra.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8241

Mark

[Naumoff]

Tony... thanks for the comments. Not sure I'd call the Weaver's "traditional" though, i.e., the base 427 is what it is. But that's just the stating point. The Weaver's will do what ever you want.... but the customer needs to ask for it.

As far as why I went the direction I did, check my build thread "General Preperation for the Build... "Visual Style".

http://www.uniquecobra.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8241

Mark
They were when I bought my kit and that is fine because that is what I wanted at the time. I have my car and I just bought a 2011 Mustang GT convertable( a Fantastic Car by the way) and thought about some changes to my Cobra. Drove my Cobra in this beautiful weather we are having right now and there is nothing like the feel of raw power. Loads of fun.

USE- on how I plan to drive the car? My Cobra will be a weekend type of usage to cruise around in for me and my wife, our friends and children/grandchildren to enjoy. I will only drive this car on nice days and for relatively short distances. I don't have any desire to race/track the car but I do love to drive aggressively. I’ve had and have euro sports cars, e.g., BMW M3, M5, Porsche and was fortunate enough to attend several track driving schools in these cars.


HAHA! I bet your couriosity will get the best of you.:D

[mkassab]

well, I will take to the drag strip at least once..... :confused:

[Aggressor]

Mark, Really great looking seats. I'm a fan of James Holland's work. I arranged through Unique to have him stitch and fit a softtop to my car in 2002. The top has been used quite often over the past 8 years and it is still show quality.

Once again - Those red seats are handsome and really eye catching. Good choice

-Geary

[mkassab]

Thanks... the door panels and leather gear shift boot will be red also... with black leather steering wheel, carpet and dash. :o

Mark

[mkassab]

I applied a product called LizardSkin. First coat is a ceramic heat shield application. The next coat will be their sound damping product. On top of that, I'll install the normal foil faced products followed by the carpet. I also plan to add lots of Dynamat.

Mark

[weaver]

The carpet install we go alot smother with the doors off.

Alan

[mkassab]

The carpet install we go alot smother with the doors off.

Alan


Thanks, I'll do just that!

[mkassab]

As you'll see in the attached photos, I installed DynaMat through out, followed by double sided foil backed fiber/wool insulation. I only install the fiber insulation on the trans tunnel forward of the gear shift and the foot wells. Carpet went it very well, along with the door panels. The 5-point seat belts went in just fine followed by the seats being bolted directly to the floor. I used a 2x4 painted flat black under the front part of the seat to give a nice rear tilt to them. The red button on the gear shift knob is to the front brake line lock. I also installed 4 speakers, 1 each foot well and 2 on the rear wall. Painted them flat black to help hide them. All components are in the trunk. I installed a Secret Audio system with iPod connect, USB, SAT and AM/FM. All antennas (SAT/REMOTE/AM/FM are also in the trunk.
Mark

[mkassab]

A while back, I bought a foot box air vent kit from www.cobraearl.com/products/ (http://www.cobraearl.com/products/) and as one of my winter project, decided to get it installed. I didn't use all the parts, but the kit had everything I needed. You probably could save some $$s and source the parts yourself, but I went the easy way. The 12v air blowers are boat engine compartment types. I used 3M panel bonding epoxy to attached the front ducts to fiberglass. To hold the ducts in place, I first took some safety wire and glued to the fiberglass using Weld epoxy. This allowed me to "safety wire" the ducts in place then apply the 3M epoxy using a wide wood popcycle stick. It all came out pretty good. Since my ducts had two attachment ports, I used the extra flex hose to direct the air to the disc brake rotors.

Mark

[Slither]

Looks like you missed a spot with that black 3M goo, Mark ;)!


Actually, it looks like it came together quite well. I like your idea of ducting to the brake discs on the spare inlet [thumb].

You didn't mention how it all works... any testing yet? What do you think? Keep us posted.

[mkassab]

Thanks Paul.... won't know really how well it works until the Florida heat hits...... but I can say this..... When I switch the fan on, it blows with considerable force.... so it should be better than nothing. The foot box attachment has a sliding door to regulate the amount of air from off to the full 3" dia. of the opening. Also, with the scopes up front with the car moving, I wouldn't think fans would be needed.

Regarding the 3M goop mess..... it's part mess and part on purpose (mostly mess). The mess comes as you try to spread this stuff, it's thick, but continues to run for an hour or so. Each time I redistributed, the "mess" gets worst. Having said that.... I did spread the epoxy wide on the fender surface area to help ensure it stays put, as I didn't remove the undercoating or paint to the bare fiberglass. The good news is..... Other than the picture, most will never know!:o

Mark

[Slither]

The foot box attachment has a sliding door to regulate the amount of air from off to the full 3" dia. of the opening.
Mark

That sounds cool... any photos of that?

[mkassab]

I do.... the first "foot box" tread picture (i.e., 4 threads up from this one) shows one end of the sliding door attachment. below is the inside of the foot box end (closed and full open). I had Alan mount these at the shop when he was working on the body. The way they were mounted, I didn't need the "pull wire" on/off kits that came with the package from cobraearl.com
Mark

[Slither]

Is that slider panel a snug fit? Does it flop around at all? Is it easy to reach/operate while seated in the car?

I'll be interested in learning how well it seems to work.

[mkassab]

Yes Paul, snug fit, no flop. No problem reaching while driving. I'd do it again.

One problem that I think would occur, that will never happen to me is.... I'd have to assume if driving at speed in the rain would almost have to bring water to the foot box. But unless you have a leakproof top, that wouldn't matter.

Mark