Coolong Fan Options

[Slither]

Just in case you have forgotten what snow is for, here is a refresher.


Sweet! Where is this? I could ski that someday[thumb]... What a view!


NOTE: The server must have barfed, as this should be reply #46 and it has ended up as #1... I also noticed that it disappeared from the new posts list. Can you fix this Patrick?

[Slither]

Just in case you have forgotten what snow is for, here is a refresher.

Let's try this again...


Sweet! Where is this? I could ski that someday[thumb]... What a view!


DiTTO: I guess it didn't work.... Patrick?

[arrowdriver]

Let's try this again...


Sweet! Where is this? I could ski that someday[thumb]... What a view!


DiTTO: I guess it didn't work.... Patrick?

The ski shot was taken while skiing at Lake Louise, Alberta. I put it on to show that some snow is good snow, unlike the stuff the falls on the roads.

[Justin Upchurch]

I have resisted using the front pusher fans on my FIA and have only used the 16 in SPAL fan, but in traffic the SPAL is not getting the job done. I haven't seen over 210 yet, but I know that it is just because I haven't had to sit long enough. As soon as I get back above 30 mph the temp goes back down to 180.

Other than building a custome shroud that the sway bar passes through, has anyone found a differnt way of dealing with the fan/swaybar clearance issue? Are there any other swaybar options out there or is there a way to modify the front swaybar to fit a larger SPAL fan?

Suggestions welcome.

Justin

[spd4me]

Justin - Brent solved that problem by bending the sway bar. Search his past post, he shows pictures.
Bob

[Jim Harding]

You might want to verify that the fan is getting a full 13 to 14 volts with the engine running. You would be surprised at how much voltage drop you can get by running the fan voltage through too small gauge wire. That voltage drop will cause the fan to run slower than expected.

[pgermond]

My experience is that the pusher are more for looks - they do very little to move air on a hot day or when sitting in traffic. I installed the SPAL and it has made a world of difference. The SPAL does have a big amperage draw, so after burning up a toggle switch or two I installed a relay - 10gauge wire and a 20 amp fuse won't hurt either....... no more problems and a cool running motor.

[Justin Upchurch]

I will check the voltage to see what the fan is drawing. Since I never used the pusher fans, I just used the wiring for them and hooked it up to the Spal. I am not a wiring expert by any means, so should I have done this differently?

Justin

[pgermond]

You should be okay.

[Jim Harding]

Justin, I think the wire feeding the front pusher fans is no more than 14 gauge. In theory, it should do the job. But I've found that for a good, high CFM puller fan, a 10 gauge wire will make a marked improvement.
I'd venture that you'll probably measure about 2 volts less at the fan as you'll measure at the battery. A 10 gauge wire should only drop a few tenths of a volt.

[arrowdriver]

Here is a pic of the fan in my car which is what it had when I bought it. Seems to work well enough to keep the engine cool when sitting in traffic on hot days. It is controlled with a dash switch but I think that having a thermostatic switch might be a good idea. Has anyone here done this?

[Jim Harding]

I installed a thermostatic switch in the intake manifold that over-rides the dash switch. That way, if I "forget :doh:" to turn it on, the thermostatic switch will turn on the fan when the coolant gets over 180 degrees.

[arrowdriver]

Jim, do you recall what you used and where you got it from? Did you need to add a relay to the system or could the thermostatic switch handle the current?

[Jim Harding]

Jim, do you recall what you used and where you got it from? Did you need to add a relay to the system or could the thermostatic switch handle the current?

I would bet my britches that I got the thermostatic switch from Summit, but I can't find the receipt...... and I don't throw anything away (usually).

Anyhow, it's similar to their part number SUM-890017.

I'm attaching a drawing of the way I wired it in. The relay is a standard automotive "ice cube" type available at most auto parts stores. The circuit breaker is Summit Part Number SMP-BR30.

[arrowdriver]

Thanks Jim, appreciate the help. The drawing is about what I figured I'd need with the relay but it's nice to confirm this before trying to invent my own way. I like your idea of adding a power point at the same time since that is something my car is missing. It does seem to me that one really doesn't need the dash switch with this set up.

[Jim Harding]

Thanks Jim, appreciate the help. The drawing is about what I figured I'd need with the relay but it's nice to confirm this before trying to invent my own way. I like your idea of adding a power point at the same time since that is something my car is missing. It does seem to me that one really doesn't need the dash switch with this set up.

Your right, but in case the thermostatic switch "malfunctions" I still have the dash switch as a backup.;)

The power port is real handy to keep the cell phone charged, GPS, and other goodies that need recharging while on the road.

[diegokid]

I used a SPAL fan and their relay harness. No guess work and it gives you the use of a dash switch to overide the thermostatic switch if desired. I mounted the sensor in the steel upper radiator pipe. I just had to weld in a bung that was included and a nut on the backside for a ground strap. If you mounted it in the intake manifold you wouldn't need the ground strap.

I run a 160 degree thermostat with the 185FH relay. Fan comes on at 185 and goes off at 170, with overide switch if the sensor fails. Only time the fan runs is in traffic since the engine stays cool on the road. The directions also show how to hook up the relays in a series too if you wanted to run more than one fan. Heavy wire with the 30 amp fuse hooks to the battery or the batt side of the solinoid.

I first had the fan ran only through the dash switch. I was told by SPAL this could have caused the failure of the regulator on back of the alt. and the burning of the batt wire off the alt. After using the SPAL part no more problems and now the batt wire from the alt is ran to the batt side of the solniod and will replace the ampmeter with a voltmeter.

[arrowdriver]

Based on stuff I have seen fail over the years i'd bet that the relay is a lot more likely to fail than the thermostatic switch and therefore there might be little advantage of adding a dash switch unless one sees a need to run the fan when the engine is cool. When diegokid says "overide the thermostatic switch" I presume this is to accomplish this rather than to prevent the theromostatic one from running the fan. It would appear that for real redundancy intalling a 30 amp rated dash switch in parallel with the relay might be what is needed to get you home in the event the relay or thermostatic switch fails.

[diegokid]

The switch is there to overide the temp sensor if it fails. The folks at spal also said if the relay fails the switch will still allow you to run the fan without the heavy wiring in the dash. All the switch does is provide a ground that the sensor usually does.

I did have the numbers wrong though. The 185 comes on at 185 and off at 165.

[arrowdriver]

If that is the case, your wiring is diffferent than Jim's since his won't let the switch run the fan if the relay fails.

[diegokid]

Here is a link. The price has went up about $15.00 since I ordered.

http://www.spalusa.com/pdf/185FH_SPEC.PDF#view=FitH

[Jim Harding]

Here is a link. The price has went up about $15.00 since I ordered.

http://www.spalusa.com/pdf/185FH_SPEC.PDF#view=FitH

Identical with mine. If that relay fails, that dash switch will not turn the fan on.
Relays, properly rated, will perform for years without failure, so this is a moot issue IMHO

[davids2toys]

Nice seeing this thread, thanks for the PM diegokid.

I just ordered a SPAL 16"fan last week and install kit from Maurice. I guess I will have to see what is in the kit as far as what I will need to install. Alan said just use a relay , no thermastat, and just use a new dash switch on a separate circuit from the present pusher fan switch. I hate electrical so I am not looking fwd to screwing with the electrical end of this!
The Weavers also said this fan will go right in with the present sway bar(mine is 5/8). I guess this thing mounts with pins thru the radiator. My pushers actually were doing a 1/2 way decent job except very hot weather and stuck in very heavy traffic. never over heated thought, just watched the gauge keep creeping up slowly but surely, ensuing in progressive panic. Hopefully no more of that.
So last week I ordered my three x-mas presents to myself:
1 SPAL fan
2 Rear sway bar
3 Spiral flow side-pipes

Any advice on the install is appreciated.

Dave

[arrowdriver]

Relays, properly rated, will perform for years without failure, so this is a moot issue IMHO[/QUOTE]


Agreed Jim, though I have seen more failed relays than failed thermostatic switches, however both are rare. I guess what I figure is that the switch on the dash really is redundant. Thanks for your help, I'm going to check to see if my car has a relay operated by the switch on the dash or if it is just directly connected. I hope there is a relay and all I have to add is the thermostat. Clearly this is a much better system than having to remember to turn on the swiitch. My car started it's life as Alan's car though it had a 428 then, got changed a few years and two owners later to the 427 so I don't know when the fan I have was installed. Maybe Alan can recall if he had it in when he drove the car??

[Slither]

Seems to work well enough to keep the engine cool when sitting in traffic on hot days.


Hot weather in Calgary Canada?... We aren't talking about 60 degree weather when the permafrost just starts to melt here are we;)?

No wonder it works well:rolleyes:!



You have snow yet:cool:?

[arrowdriver]

Before I owned this car it was in Tenn after Alan sold it so has seen some hot weather. Here, being as we are at 4000 ft above sealevel a hot day is mid 90's and bright sun. Needless to say, this car is not a winter car, though we have days in January warm enough for it with temps in the mid 60's at times.

Regarding snow, our autumn has been exceptionally mild and sunny this year extending the golfing weather nicely but we did get our first snowfall last night though it wont stay yet, just enough to cover the grass and remind us that winter is around the corner. Gotta check those skis! Hope they are getting some in the mountains.

Our climate is similar to Denver's though with far less snow than they get. Not nearly as cold as Wyoming in winter. Ever been here?

[weaver]

The car did not have a rear mounted puller fan when we owned it, only a pusher with no relay.

[arrowdriver]

Thanks for the info Alan, seems it still has the same pusher fan so doubtful that there is a relay anywhere in the system. BTW, I'm taking good care of your car and enjoying every mile.

[weaver]

The switch should handle the single fan without a relay but if you add a rear fan it will need one.

[Jim Harding]

I guess this thing mounts with pins thru the radiator.

Any advice on the install is appreciated.

Dave

Dave, don't use the push through pins to mount the fan. Eventually they'll wear a hole in the radiator.

Spal makes a mounting kit (30130011) for the fan that will anchor it properly. Or, if you're like me, you can fab up something like spals and get the job done with something made from your own two hands[thumb] If you're into rolling your own, I'll snap some pics of my brackets to show you how I mounted mine.

[davids2toys]

Dave, don't use the push through pins to mount the fan. Eventually they'll wear a hole in the radiator.

Spal makes a mounting kit (30130011) for the fan that will anchor it properly. Or, if you're like me, you can fab up something like spals and get the job done with something made from your own two hands[thumb] If you're into rolling your own, I'll snap some pics of my brackets to show you how I mounted mine.
Thanks for the info. I am getting an install kit with the fan, guess we will see what is in it when I get it:confused:
Maybe it will be the kit you are referring to.
Dave

[pbrown]

Just carry a spare relay. They're only a few bucks.

This is where I buy relays and connectors:
http://www.parts-express.com/home.cfm

The relay:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=330-070

The pigtail:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=330-080

[Slither]

Ever been here?

Lots of time in eastern Canada, around Montreal and Sherbrooke, but not much out west.

Did a canoeing trip in Quetico once, many moons ago[thumb]... not that it is "west.";)

Thought I would miss the snow when I headed south... for a little while but NOT anymore:D!

[arrowdriver]

Just in case you have forgotten what snow is for, here is a refresher.

[davids2toys]

Just carry a spare relay. They're only a few bucks.

This is where I buy relays and connectors:
http://www.parts-express.com/home.cfm

The relay:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=330-070

The pigtail:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=330-080
Excellent, thank you very much.
Dave

[arrowdriver]

Agreed that the relays are pretty cheap but how do you determine what "spares" to carry as there are lots of other small items one might add to the list. Fortunately most of the components of our cars that might fail are generally easy to locate and buy so the chances of being stranded while on the road are small. I carry a few tools but no spares of any kind. How about others here?

[KrAzEcJ]

No tools no spares just a cell phone with the 24 hour a day emergency number for rollback service. opps I forgot that I do have a spare 20 amp fuse in the side door pocket for the fan.

[davids2toys]

spare fuses for every fuse in the car, headlight switch, I will carry a spare relay when I do the fan. i also want to put a headlight relay in, so that will be two spare relays.
In addition to spares I carry a fishing bag full of asst hand tools, 10 feet of 3/8 fuel line, makes a good syphon in case you run out of gas(happened once), also makes a great temp fix or an insulator, asst hose clamps, Safety wire( can temporarily fix a bunch of stuff with this!!!
4'x4' quilt to put on fenders in case I need to work on the car on the road. A magnet with a built in light. can of fix a flat, asst tie wraps...........
Of course the cell phone and motoring plan as a last resort:D

[RJacobsen]

spare fuses for every fuse in the car, headlight switch, I will carry a spare relay when I do the fan. i also want to put a headlight relay in, so that will be two spare relays.
In addition to spares I carry a fishing bag full of asst hand tools, 10 feet of 3/8 fuel line, makes a good syphon in case you run out of gas(happened once), also makes a great temp fix or an insulator, asst hose clamps, Safety wire( can temporarily fix a bunch of stuff with this!!!
4'x4' quilt to put on fenders in case I need to work on the car on the road. A magnet with a built in light. can of fix a flat, asst tie wraps...........
Of course the cell phone and motoring plan as a last resort:D

What!! No duct tape???

[KrAzEcJ]

I think you left out the kitchen sink?

[davids2toys]

Oh, I wanted to spare the details! But yes, a small roll of green duct tape and black electrical tape, fuse puller and tester, special thin wrenches for throttle linkage.
You don't want me to go into the tool bag...LOL
All of this fits in the right quarter panel pocket, along with rags, detail kit, 1/18 scale Cobra model and some bottled water.
The list would be impressive if I broke down the whole trunk item by item, especially now since it is getting cold on those fall cruises. I did try for the kitchen sink, but I would have had to skip my car cover, the car cover won the spot!
At the moment I am pricing out a total hidden Stereo system...there goes the car cover:D
This would be a good thread to start" What a Cobra owner keeps in his trunk"

[pbrown]

Dave,

You'll need one relay for the fan, two for the lights (hi and lo) and maybe one for an electric fuel pump. Use the same relay for all and carry just one spare.

I've never had a relay fail. They are simple devices and are quite reliable.

[davids2toys]

Dave,

You'll need one relay for the fan, two for the lights (hi and lo) and maybe one for an electric fuel pump. Use the same relay for all and carry just one spare.

I've never had a relay fail. They are simple devices and are quite reliable.
I have no experience with relays at all. I bought a relay last years for the lights, but only one! I was told I would only need one, are you sure I need two?:confused:
Thanks...Dave

[pbrown]

I have no experience with relays at all. I bought a relay last years for the lights, but only one! I was told I would only need one, are you sure I need two?:confused:
Thanks...Dave

Yes. You need one for high and one for low beam. You could get fancy and use three. The third can be a master to the two downstream headlights and be swiched with ignition hot. That way your light go out when you pull the key and you never return to a dead battery when you forget to turn off the lights.

[davids2toys]

Yes. You need one for high and one for low beam. You could get fancy and use three. The third can be a master to the two downstream headlights and be switched with ignition hot. That way your light go out when you pull the key and you never return to a dead battery when you forget to turn off the lights.
I guess I have a lot to learn. :confused:
I will have to find some literature on all of this so it is done the first time correctly!
Thanks

[pbrown]

Here is a basic diagram showing two relays. I show two bulbs for hi and low. These would actually be a single physical headlight with two inputs and a ground.

The relay pin numbers are Bosch (now Tyco) standard numbers. Pin 30 and 87 are connected inside the relay when the circuit is complete on pins 85 and 86.

Buy a relay and play with it on a workbench. It will all make sense.

Here is a good website I found that will help.
http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/earlyburbs/projects/bosch/relay.htm

[davids2toys]

Great info, thanks a lot. Well the low beams should be easy. as far as the high beam goes, i will just need to find the high beam wire from the pogo stick on the column!
Dave